Crush and Press

Sicily's Ravida is a Genuine Gregory Peck

2010-06-22T16:53:00.006-04:00

Last week Crush+Press presented the regal and elegant Colonna, the Audrey Hepburn of extra virgin olive oils. To continue with our Roman Holiday, or in this case Southern Italian, we must have Gregory Peck. Without question, Sicily’s Ravidà Organic extra virgin olive oil wins the audition. Being a constant resident in my pantry for the past 10+ years, this olive oil/juice is suave, manly and always gives a stellar performance—Gregory Peck!

Once again, similar to Marina Colonna, we have the daughter of a noble Italian family, Natalia Ravidà, who urged her father to begin bottling his own extra virgin olive oil and exporting around the world. Nicolò Ravidà, like any adoring and appreciative father, listened and acted. He applied his engineering background and implemented modern production practices resulting in one of the truly finest and most consistent olive oil estates in the world. After his retirement, Nicolò handed the reins to Natalia, our co-guest of honor at the “ Celebrate the Taste of Southern Italy,” sponsored by Washington Wine and Wine and Crush+Press benefiting Dress for Success.

The accomplished Natalia once lived the life of a broadcast journalist based in London. Recently she published a marvelous cookbook, Seasons of Sicily, which is a celebration of generations of Sicilian culinary culture. Her eggplant rolls with béchamel sauce are pure yummy and was a major hit at my dinner parties last summer. She continues to travel the world promoting the fine attributes of premium extra virgin olive oil and Sicilian cuisine. She lives in Palermo with her husband, Giuseppe Spatafora, and son, Alfredo.

For those in the Washington, DC metro region, you have a fun opportunity to chat with Natalia and taste the Gregory Peck of extra virgin olive at an informal reception at Potenza restaurant on Thursday, June 24 from 7-9 p.m. Please register in advance at http://www.washingtonwomenandwine.com/pdf/wwwbrochure-potenza.pdf or email your RSVP to info@washingtonwomenandwine.com. Tickets are $65 in advance and $75 at the door.

Please join us in celebrating these two legendary women olive producers from Italy.

Photos: Promotion poster for "Roman Holiday" and the Ravidà villa in Menfi, Sicily.

Audrey Hepburn & Marina Colonna—Enchanting Spice

2010-06-16T11:19:00.007-04:00

My recent tour of Marina Colonna’s estate in Molise gave me a mild version of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck’s frantic Vespa ride through the streets of Rome in the 1953 cinema classic Roman Holiday. Prior to my arrival, rain had turned the roads and fields on Principessa Marina Colonna’s farm into a nearly unnavigable sea of mud. This didn’t stop Marina. We hopped in her truck and began our tour, first stopping to bring mid-morning coffee to the workers pruning her olive trees. We continued by slipping, sliding and spinning up and down hills all across the farm. As we rolled along near one of her beautiful lakes at a decent speed, we plunged suddenly into a deep mud hole sending muddy water in every direction. After my head bounced off of the ceiling of the cab a couple of times, Marina glanced at me and quipped, “Everyone thinks this is scary, I think it’s normal.”

It wasn’t normal when Marina stormed onto the private label olive oil stage in the 1980s. Her father, Prince Francesco Colonna, had always sold his olive crop to the large industrial olive oil processing companies. Marina challenged him to “stop selling to those people” and bottle and brand his own olive oil. His response was, “No.” After further urging from Marina, he wavered finally telling her if she felt so strongly, “then you do it.” She did.

For her leading role in Roman Holiday, Audrey Hepburn won an Oscar for her first role as a leading lady. Since making her plunge into the estate olive oil business, Principessa Marina Colonna has been winning her share of awards by producing outstanding premium Extra Virgin olive oils. Her extra virgin olive oils have won awards from such prestigious organizations as Slow Food. The Italian olive oil producers’ Consortium Unaprol has given Marina Colonna the “100% Italian Quality” award for “her efforts to promote the quality of real Italian extra virgin olive.”

Villa at the Colonna Estate in Molise

A couple of years ago, I began using celebrities to describe flavor profiles of premium extra virgin olive oils. For this hands-on farmer/principessa, there’s only one celebrity to describe the Colonna Classic Blend, Audrey Hepburn—elegant, regal with a gentle touch of enchanting spice.

You have a rare opportunity to meet the leading lady of the Colonna estate at the “Celebrate the Tastes of Southern Italy” on Thursday, June 24 from 7-9 pm at Potenza restaurant in Washington, DC. The event is sponsored by Washington, Women and Wine, Crush+Press and Dress for Success. For more information and registration:

http://www.washingtonwomenandwine.com/pdf/wwwbrochure-potenza.pdf

Note—The use of celebrities is in no way intended to suggest these celebrities have endorsed these products, but is a simple way to give the consumer a glimpse of what can be expected from the juice in the bottle.

Celebrate the Tastes of Southern Italy

2010-06-14T15:47:00.009-04:00

On Thursday, June 24, 2010 from 7-9p, Crush+Press will join Washington Women & Wine and Dress for Success as we ”Celebrate the Tastes of Southern Italy” with two extraordinary women olive oil producers, Principessa Marina Colonna, Molise, Italy, www.marinacolonna.it and Natalia Ravidà, Menfi, Sicily, www.ravida.it. You’ll enjoy sampling exquisite southern Italian cuisine featuring olive oils from the Colonna and Ravidà Estates, paired with a selection of beautiful southern Italian wines. As part of the launch of the new Crush+Press ecommerce web site for REAL handcrafted extra virgin olive oil, I will be assisting Marina and Natalia with the informal demonstrations.

Our event will take place at Potenza, DC’s favorite new trattoria, bakery and wine store, named for a scenic town in southern Italy. This is an opportunity to learn more about Crush and Press, www.crushandpress.com, the programs of Dress for Success, www.dressforsuccess.org/washingtondc, and join Washington Women and Wine, if you are not a member. Advance registration is strongly recommended. The event fee is $65.00 for those registering by Tuesday, June 22,2010 and $75.00 at the door. Please register in advance at http://www.washingtonwomenandwine.com/pdf/wwwbrochure-potenza.pdf

Stayed tuned to this blog over the next few days as I post more about Marina and Natalia. (Photo--Natalia with her parents Ninny and Nicolò Ravidà)

Hungry Memphis

2010-05-20T09:59:00.002-04:00

Our Tunisian olive oil tasting at the Madison garnered some nice press from the Memphis Flyer.

Memphis and Ole Man River Enjoys a Taste of Tunisia

2010-05-19T15:36:00.010-04:00

Our trip to Memphis begin predictably with its famous barbeque and a visit to Beale Street. A short walk from our hotel was Blues City Cafe, which served us their "Best Deal on Beale Street," half slab of ribs and fried catfish. Here's heaven in Tennessee. Of course, a tablespoon of EVOO before bed provided a much needed digestive aid.

We began our participation in the Memphis in May Salute to Tunisia with an early appearance on the CBS affiliate WREG, Channel 3,"Live at 9" daily show with veteran anchors Mary Beth Conley and Alex Coleman. On behalf of 100% Tunisian Olive Oil, Al Hamman and I gave viewers an olive oil tasting demonstration with Rivière d'Or Organic Extra Virgin olive oil. And what fun it was.

When a person swallows high quality olive oil for the first time, particularly on live TV, a fun visual is certain. I instructed our hosts to breath through their teeth as they swallowed the olive oil/juice. As she swallowed, Mary Beth quipped simultaneously, "Why? My response, "You're about to find out." At that moment, her eyes nearly popped out of her head as the peppery grip in the back of her throat erupted like a volcano. "WOW!" By the end of the segment, Mary Beth was coveting the amazing health benefits of EVOO by mimicking drinking straight from the bottle. This was fun TV. Thanks Mary Beth and Alex.

Next came our primary purpose for the trip to Memphis, the Tunisia Olive Oil Tasting at the Madison Hotel Rooftop from 5:30-7:30. Formerly a bank, the Madison rooftop offers one of the best views of the mighty Mississippi River, and its over stretched banks due to recent floods. With a blazing sunset, this was the perfect venue for over 60 guests tasting wines from the Mediterranean, Tunisian olive oil and feasting on Chef Chris Windsor's Tunisian- Southern fusion cuisine. The presentation of Marqiz (Tunisian lamb sausage), Briks (Tunisian tuna and egg stuffed turnovers), calamari and olive salad, falafel with harissa chili sauce, and lamb sliders looked so yummy as those trays cruised past our tasting table. They tell me the food was fantastic. Al and I wouldn't know. We were totally and happily engaged in continual olive tasting demos during the entire two hours (photo).

Offering an olive oil tasting can cause some raised eyebrows. A usual response is often, "Are you serious?" This was not the case with this group overlooking "Ole Man River." The fun, adventurous folks of Memphis heartily embraced the idea of tasting olive oil the professional way, straight, without bread. Their enthusiasm and eagerness to learn and understand more about EVOO, and in particular Tunisian EVOO, was gratifying....and a rush. Also, Al and I were amazed at how many of the guests had actually visited Tunisian, and recently, too. This was a well traveled gathering.

For our brief travels, Al and I extend special thanks to Josh Spotts and Chef Windsor at the Madison Hotel, and our new friend, Randy Blevins of Memphis in May International Festival, Inc., who briefed and shepherded us through our visit.

And a river of thanks, to the good folks of Memphis!

Memphis Meets Tunisia

2010-05-16T09:38:00.008-04:00

Memphis is celebrating exotic Tunisia the entire Month of May. Celebrity Chef Rafik Tlatli from the seaside resort city of Monastir, Tunisia recently prepared a five-course menu at the famed Peabody Hotel. You will be comforted to know that duck was not on the menu.

Now, on behalf of 100% Tunisian Olive Oil, Al Hamman of Hamman Marketing Associates and I will journey to Memphis tomorrow for media rounds early Tuesday morning followed that evening by a Tunisia Olive Oil Tasting on the Madison Hotel rooftop. Madison Chef Chris Windsor is preparing a menu of traditional Tunisian cuisine blended with a southern twist. Hey folks, how about lamb sliders?

We will conduct informal olive oil demonstrations from 5:30 to 7:30. While gazing at the setting sun, guests will have the opportunity to sample several 100% Tunisian olive oils for their tasting pleasure.

Surprising to most people, Tunisia is the fourth largest olive oil producer in the world, dating back 3,000 years. Historically, Tunisian olive oil has been sold in bulk to the large European industrial companies, which export to the U.S and other countries under their own country label ("Packed in Italy"). Now, times are changing. Following the path of their Spanish and Italian neighbors, Tunisian growers have begun to bottle this flavorful, healthy nectar under their own labels, thus giving them better quality control. Tunisian olive oils, Riviére d'Or and Terra Delyssa, are available currently in the U.S., but more are coming. Actually, the EVOO from Newman's Own is 100% Tunisian olive oil.

If you live near Memphis or passing through join us Tuesday, May 19 on the rooftop of Madison Hotel. For advanced reservations (only $35), please contact the Madison Hotel--901.333.1224 or www.grill83.com

Extra Virgin JUICE!

2010-05-04T15:32:00.010-04:00

“THEY JUST SELL FAT,” cried Manfredi Barbera as we cruised through the winding turns to his mill located 45 minutes outside of Palermo, Sicily. Barbera, the producer of Frantoia Extra Virgin olive oil, was referring to the bulk, industrial olive oil companies and other seed oils on the shelves of large supermarkets. He explained further, “These oils have no antioxidants, carotenes and other health benefits that consumers expect from Extra Virgin olive oil. ”

Sadly, many of these companies are blending older or adulterated oil with fresher oil to improve the chemistry and slapping an Extra Virgin label on the bottle and shipping it to the U.S. There is some good news. On Wednesday, April 28, 2010, the USDA finally published federal standards for Extra Virgin olive oil, including enforcement against these fraudulent activities. The standards will take effect October 24,2010.

In contrast to these inferior oils, high quality Extra Virgin olive oil is a FAT (monounsaturated-good fat)... and a JUICE! It’s the JUICE that contains the polypenol antioxidants, vitamin E (nature’s longevity drug) and other other healthy compounds. There is an undisputable wide gap between the quality of estate grown and most mass-produced olive oils. Inexpensive industrial olive oils, on the other hand, are just fat, and possibly defective.

This point was echoed repeatedly during my recent 26 nights and 19-bed tour of great olive oil regions of the Mediterranean. Top Extra Virgin olive oil producers in Tunisia, Italy, France, and Spain expressed uniformly their displeasure and frustration at the flood of fraudulent defective olive oils on the market. To illustrate the JUICE factor, the clever brother and sister team of Francisco and Rosa Vañó (photo) in Jaen, Spain manage the family company called Castello de Canena Olive JUICE SL. They clearly know what they're growing.

How can you, the consumer, ensure that you are buying Extra Virgin olive oil, which is a JUICE and not just a fat?

First, know your source. Know from whom you are buying. Do these folks know anything about olive oil? Most large retailers have little knowledge of olive oil, particularly the importance of proper storage. Here’s a tip. Never buy a bottle of olive oil from the top shelf. Always grab a bottle from the darker center of the shelf. Light, heat and air are the major enemies of olive oil.

How can you detect if a bottle of olive oil is defective. The reason Fresh is Best is my primary mantra about olive oil is because, like all JUICEs, olive oil oxidizes, eventually reaching a nasty state of rancidity. Here’s a test. Remove the cap from your bottle of olive oil and take a series of short, rapid whiffs (like a dog). Do you detect aromas of nail polish, nail polish remover or paint thinner? If so, the oil is rancid. There are two other primary defects. Fusty is the smell of fermenting fruit, likely resulting from taking too long to process the fruit after picking. Another severe defect is winey, which is evidenced by a vinegar aroma.

Within a few days of an olive oil demonstration, I will often purchase a bulk Extra Virgin olive oil from a major supermarket. Participants smell this oil first giving context for the fresher, high quality Extra Virgin JUICE. This never fails to be an enlightening. You can safely try this at home with your kids.

Why is the JUICE factor important in using olive oil? Cooking with any oil, olive or otherwise, which is merely a fat is not harmful, just inadequate. The JUICE element with its higher polypenols offers a higher smoke point for cooking purposes. Moreover, most of the healthy stuff is lost during cooking. Greater healthy benefits from the JUICE are garnered from drizzling over your food after being removed from the heat, immediately before serving. Not only are you adding the health benefits of Extra Virgin JUICE, but flavor and freshness too. Chefs always talk about layering in flavoring with seasoning. You, the home cook, can layer by drizzling Extra Virgin JUICE.

Remember—all Extra Virgin olive oils are not the same. Go for the JUICE!

A Rainy Saturday in Burgundy

2010-04-04T08:54:00.007-04:00

Saturday, April 3, 2010

It’s Easter weekend and pouring rain in Burgundy. What is one to do? Spending the day in Beaune, the commercial heart of Burgundy, seemed to be the most viable option. Programmed the GPS and off… Arriving in Beaune, I strolled through the renowned Saturday farmers’ market. Everything is available, including flowers, sausage, fish, vegetables, and clothing. Oh, how I want a kitchen here.

Being a holiday weekend, requesting appointments with local vignerons for wine tasting is inappropriate and fruitless. Alternatively, my favorite wine shop, La Boutique des Domaines, was a logical next stop. As always, the proprietor, Fréderic Henry, recognized me from past adventures and handed me his weekly printout of available inventory and… a glass of wine. This is the civilized way to shop.

This is my third trip to Burgundy in the past three years. Thanks to the advice of Oregon Pinot Noir producer and Burgundy importer, Scott Wright, I have found La Boutique des Domaines to be the best of the countless wine shops in Beaune. Finding a couple of hard to find gems at a good value (relatively speaking) is always doable at this address. This year was no exception. As in the past, a Domaine Armand Rousseau grand cru was among my discoveries. The Ruchottes-Chambertin is a tiny grand cru located above the Mazis-Chambertin and Close de Bèze Grand Crus and next to Bel Air, one of my favorite premier crus.

From Burghound fame, here are Allen Meadow’s comments on the 2007 Ruchottes-Chambertin - Clos des Ruchottes: “Rousseau noted that in 2007, the Ruchottes received 25% new wood whereas in the past, the percentage was zero. An elegant, cool, restrained and lilting nose of rose petal, cranberry and raspberry aromas merges into medium weight flavors brimming with minerality and culminating in a relatively powerful finish underpinned by ripe tannins and excellent length. This really stains the palate and I very much like the underlying sense of tension.” 92/2015+

2015! Since when have I had patience?

There’s more—a bottle of Humbert Freres’ (a personal fave) 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Estournelles St. Jacques Premier Cru, is also coming home with me.

Now, after all that shopping, Je suis faim—starving A few doors from the wine shop is one of my favorite Beaune culinary havens, Caves Madeleine. A renowned food writer, whose name escapes me, was once asked to share the name of his favorite restaurant. He answered, “The one that knows my name.” Although, the owner, Lolo (phot0-showing the bottle), didn’t know my name, today, he recognized me clearly from many past visits (the last was over two years ago) and offered a hearty and warm greeting. At Caves Madeleine, you feel more like a guest in a home, than a restaurant. There are fancier restaurants in Beaune and Burgundy with higher culinary reputations, but none are more fun. Lolo always seats you next to the most interesting people at the long community table. And to choose a wine, simply scan the bins along the wall. Take your choice from the bin and set it on the table. Lolo will pop the cork for you. The price of a bottle of wine is retail, not restaurant mark-ups. Where else can you find a reasonably priced Meursault and a 2000 premier cru by the glass? If desired, a hefty wine list is available for those older gems in the cellar.

Following lunch, a tour of the Hospices de Beaune, Hôtel-Dieu (Phot0-R), Beaune’s most famous landmark, proved to be the perfect activity for a rainy afternoon. Built by the Duke of Burgundy in 1443, this hospital has been preserved completely. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century, this charitable hospital served the poor, middle class and nobles. The artwork includes Isaac Moillon’s illustration of the miracles of Christ and Flemish artist Roger Van der Weyden’s Last Judgment. The kitchen is any foodie’s fantasy.

For more photos go to www.facebook.com/crushandpress

Despite the weather, this was a full and fun day in Burgundy—and still raining. Tomorrow, Easter in Paris!

Takes Three at La Riboto de Taven

2010-03-31T05:21:00.007-04:00

Tuesday, March 30, Soir

Can you imagine entertaining for a maximum of 18 quests nearly every night of the week? Planning meals, prepping, cooking, serving, entertaining, cleaning and washing dishes by hand, and all with a smile--every night. Plus, there's only three people doing all of this work. This happens at the elegant La Riboto de Taven in Les Baux en Provence. Magically, Chef Jean-Pierre Novi and owners, Christine and Philippe Theme (photo) create culinary magic.

I'm not a critic, just a promoter and enjoyer. On this four week adventure, the dining has been extraoradinary and memorable from Tunisia, Sicily to Tuscany, except for the focaccia pomodora pizza that I attempted to eat from the autogrill on the Austradra while driving to Roma on Monday. Last night, however, achieved supreme grandeur.

Castelas olive oil producers, Catherine and Jean-Benoît Hugues managed to convince the owners to open the restaurant just for the three of us (another couple showed up). Jean-Bientȏt predicted this will be an experience! And how right he was.

Get this—Chef Jean-Pierre keeps a record of the courses he prepares for his quests to never repeat one. And Philippe was born in a kitchen following generations of chefdom...He said, "The kitchen was warmer for pregnant women." I will take is word on that one.

What did they prepare just for us? We began with succulent and heavenly foie gras. Next was the innovative dish of the trip, Royal de languistines (Shrimp-like) and flan on three different types of pasta (linguine) woven together by hand, smothered with a Castelas ginger olive oil emulsion. The main course was guinea hen and FRESH spring veggies (snow peas and fava beans). This was followed by the cheese course. Jean-Benoît suggested adding some olive oil to the cheese plate. The Hugues TV dinner is cheese, olive oil and bread. What's dinner without dessert? Fresh strawberries marinated in Castels olive oil (surprise surprise) and a small, warm soufflé.

And you're asking about the wine. There were two wonderful red wines from the the local area. We began with the 2005 Equinoxe Domaine de Lauziérs from Les Baux Provence, AOC (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault blend). One was not enough so we had Madame Dominque Hauvette's 100% Cinsault, which you never see as mono-varietal wine. All were a perfect accompaniment to a nirvana culinary experience.

Now, if that wasn't enough. As we left the restaurant, we were met by a full moon hovering over the cliffs of Les Baux. To recap the day, a rainbow, a full moon, a magical dinning experience shared with wonderful friends. I'm living large.

Castelas: The Amerian Dream Lives in France

2010-03-31T03:58:00.006-04:00

Tuesday, March 30, 2010, Aprés-mIdi

Arriving at Castelas, there was Jean-Benoît Hugues in the olive oil mill dressed in a blue suit (having returned from a speaking engagement) with a wrench and black, greasy hands. He and two employees were working on the centrifuge, the heart of the olive oil production process. They weren’t simply working on it. They were dissembling and reassembling entirely. “We must know and maintain this equipment ourselves. We can’t rely on finding a technician during the peak of the harvest,” Jean-Benoît stated emphatically. Not only does Jean-Bientôt’s team know the equipment, they have discovered flaws and improved the system. “It works better now than when we first bought it.”

This attention to detail stems from an earlier career as an engineer in Arizona. After 15 years in the U.S. Jean-Benoît and his wife, Catherine, who has her master’s degree in biochemistry (or something near to that—I avoided that world in school). They returned to their roots in Les Baux en Provence with their French accents in tact to raise a family and produce high quality Extra Virgin olive oil. Jean-Benoît asserts proudly that he and his wife are living the American dream. “Had it not been for our American experience, we would not be living our dream of producing high quality olive oil here in Provence."

Castelas brings new meaning to high quality Extra Virgin olive oil. The bar has been raised. His engineering skills have created a production system that requires no outside water during the process. Water can dilute flavor and freshness. It is common to add tap water during the production process to help extract the oil from the pomace. At Castelas, water comes from the olives only, not an added outside source. The result is a more flavorful, fresher and healthier oil. Castelas Extra Virgin olive has a length on the palate and the shelf, which far exceeds typical olive oils proclaiming to be Extra Virgin. Castelas is the real deal.

With Jean-Benoît, high quality Extra Virgin olive oil begins in the grove, which includes productive trees that are estimated to be 500 years-old. He is a strong proponent of irrigation, which gives the fruit the natural and necessary water required in the production process.

During an impromptu olive oil seminar given to a group of Australian visitors, the Hugues advised folks to not be afraid of bitter and peppery olive oils. These characteristics are signs of quality and will dissipate with cooking and add complexity to your food by drizzling after cooking.

Castelas is worth visiting on any trip to Provence. The estate is located on the foothills below the breathtakingly majestic village of Les Baux.

During our visit, a large rainbow appeared above us. Jean-Benoît quiped with a smile, "It's a sign." Yes—of the of the joys and prosperity of the American dream alive in France.

3/23/10--Reveling in Ravidá

2010-03-26T02:30:00.006-04:00

Hotel Villa Esperia in the beautiful seaside resort town of Mondello, near Palermo, is a couple of blocks from the Mediterranean Sea and a few blocks from the beautiful and stately home of Natalia Ravidá, her husband, Giuseppe and their endearing son, 9 year-old Alfredo. After a burst of expresso and an unsuccessful attempt at an Internet connection, Natalia and I embarked on the one-hour plus drive to Menfi in southwest, Sicily. Upon arrival, we drove over dirt roads through the farm observing welcoming signs of spring including a bright blue sky, blooming lemon flowers among the vineyards and the olive trees. Our first stop was a reserve of wild olive trees and fennel, followed by a grove of ancient trees, 200-500 or more years old. These trees were crafted from the nearby wild trees. Interestingly, these trees were not planted in rows, but spaced randomly and obviously not planted purposefully. With their twisted trunks, these trees exude authentic character. If they could only talk… According to local folklore, the twisting is a result of the spinning earth over the centuries.

After watching a team pruning the olive trees and picking some lemons, Natalia gave me a tour of the mill, including an explanation of their innovative storage system. Using a bag and box technology with smaller 1000-liter tanks, olive oil is stored in two-day lots. Not only is the olive oil stored by varietal, but by time of harvest. My olive oil mantra is “Fresh is Best.” Here is an outstanding example of maintaining the critical freshness of Extra Virgin olive oil.

Any visit to this famed olive oil estate would not be complete without tasting some olive oil. Having a close relationship with this oil for over ten years, the familiar lemon/citrus, grassy, tomato leaf aromas exploded on the nose—classic Ravidá. This oil always takes me back to my youth, strolling down a row of tomato vines. Natalia is developing a new product, a lemon flavored oil. I’ve never been a fan of flavored oils. After all, the oil by definition is no longer Extra Virgin. Plus, most flavored oils on the market use a poor quality olive oil. With this lemon-flavored oil, my conversion is possible, showing nice pepperiness in the back of the throat—a perfect condiment for those summer salads.

Another innovation at Ravidá is the 3 and 5 liter box and bag packaging. Similar to the new wine boxes, exposure to air is minimized preserving freshness for a year or more after opening—Fresh is Best!

Now comes pure pleasure—lunch with Natalia’s mother and father, Ninni and Nicolo, in their magnificent home dating to 1770. My daughter, who is an interior designer and adores old, old stuff, would never leave this home.

Now, when God invented lunch this is what he had in mind. Greeted with a glass of Sicilian white wine made from Greciano, we had a lovely get acquainted chat. Then, Ninni and Nicolo Ravidá, elegant and charming, escorted us to their regal dinning room with a large burning fireplace. Signora Ravidá began with a wonderful potato and mushroom soufflé-like dish. Natalia referred to it as Sicilian Shepherd’s pie—No comparison, this tasted much better. Cod fritters, sautéed chicory and a dessert of refreshing orange slices drizzled with an adult beverage finished out the yummy culinary parade. Of course, a local red wine (Syrah) accompanied the experience. Although Signor Ravidá has owned vineyards across Italy for decades, he’s never bottled under his own level. He has supplied some of the finest vino estates in Italy, including the famed Antinori in Tuscany.

Natalia has authored a marvelous cookbook entitled, Seasons of Sicily. The recipes are simple, authentic and great for entertaining. She and her mother conduct cooking classes at their home in Menfi.

Following lunch, Signor Ravidá and I hovered next to the fire for a brief interview. Two hours passed in a flash. After finishing the video portion of our visit, he rose slowly from his chair. With a little twinkle in his eye and a sheepish grin, he asked, “Would you like a little something?” Having never said no in my life, he emerged with two small glasses and a bottle of Pravis Dolomiti Bianca, an orange blossomed dessert wine from northern Italy.

Hearing Signor Ravidá's engaging stories behind the creation of one the greatest olive oils of the world is a memory that I will cherish forever. Video excerpts of this interview will be shown in the future on Crush and Press and www.facebook.com/crushandpress

After interviewing Natalia, we raced back to Palermo to join Giuseppe for dinner at Bye, Bye Blues Ristorante in Palermo. Chef Patrizia Di Benedetto is the first major female chef in Palermo. She presents a modern twist of traditional Sicilian dishes and ingredients, based on her global travels. The affable chef once cooked with Roberto Donna, the famed Italian chef in Washington, DC. Simply divine describes her octopus carpaccio with oranges and perfectly cooked clams.

Following dinner, Natalia and Giuseppe gave me a tour of the old Palermo with its fabulous architecture, dating to the 17^th century. Two days in Sicily is not enough. I shall return.

Exhausted, full and gleeful, I was asleep before my head hit the pillow.

Photo: Natalia, Ninni and Nicolo Ravidá

3/22/10-A Sicilian Cowboy and Maker's Mark

2010-03-26T01:54:00.013-04:00

My Tunis Air flight touched down in Palermo, Sicily on time at 12:15 pm, The friendly and beautiful smile of Anna (formerly from Brooklyn) from the office of Manfredi Barbera office greeted me and drove me to Manfredi’s home. Manfredi Barbera owns Premiati Oleifici Barbara, which has been in business since 1894. Manfredi produces many labels of Extra Virgin olive oil, but the most important to me is Frantoia, which will be available for purchase on the soon to be released Crush and Press. This olive oil has outstanding value and has kept a regular spot in my pantry for over ten years. Despite leaving the next day for a 10 day visit to Brazil, Manfredi set aside the afternoon to visit with me.

Understanding this Sicilian cowboy requires a glimpse at his 400 year-old house. This was once the home of the Prince of Naples, but because of gambling and other activities “finished his money before finishing the house,” according to Manfredi. This home has been in the Barbera family for 120 years and was a country hunting house originally. Forty years ago, the land surrounding the home was developed into apartment buildings and other commercial establishments. One row of trees still lines the street leading to the house, which once provided the traditional picturesque long driveway to this magnificent home.

Shortly after greeting Manfredi, we were sitting down to a typical Italian lunch, a simple and tasty tomato-based macaroni and a red wine. We ate and ran. With his lovable 5 year-old son, Lorenzo, joining us, we began the 45 minute drive to his mill in Custonaci, near Trapani on the western tip of Sicily.

It was not long into the drive that I discovered Manfredi’s love of Kentucky bourbon, particularly Maker’s Mark. A treat to himself on any trip to New York City is a mega steak paired with Maker’s Mark on the rocks. Come to think of it, Bill Samuels, President of Maker’s Mark and Manfredi share a similar eccentric DNA. Introducing these two is a must. Joining them for dinner could be an unparalleled hilarious experience.

Speaking of steaks, Manfredi, who is an exceptional cook, prefers to finish his steaks after cooking with sea salt, fresh lemon and olive oil, Frantoia , of course—and bourbon.

At the mill, he demonstrated a new milling technology that he is experimenting with. This new technology has four separate grinders for crushing. These grinders can be switched and two of them can work collaboratively. This gives the capability of producing six or seven different flavor styles from the same olives. One grinder rolls similar to a traditional stone wheel, but without the exposure to air. The second is a hammer, which is similar to a coffee grinder. Third is an iron disc that acts as a masher. Finally, one grinder removes the pits before crushing giving a softer flavor profile.

Furthermore, the mill is divided into clean and dirty zones to preserve the integrity of the oil and achieving optimum sanitation. This process and picking olives when they are green (adding bitterness and pungency) explains how his Frantoia has the capacity to maintain its freshness beyond most Extra Virgin olive oils.

Manfredi resolved one mystery for me. His main oil is called, Frantoia. In Italian, Frantoio means mill. Frantoio is also a prominent Italian olive varietal. What’s with “Frantoia?” With a big smile, Manfredi said, “It’s fantasy. No meaning. It’s woman, which is better.” I’m in agreement. The romantic cowboy invented the feminine of Frantoio.

To conclude our visit, Lorenzo and I played in a huge ancient cave at Grotta Mangiapane and saw a 500 year-old frantoio (mill). After a thrilling drive back to Palermo, dinner with the Ravidás.

Tunisian Olive Oil: Change is Inevitable Except from a Vending Machine

2010-03-22T00:50:00.010-04:00

As I depart Tunisia, today, and reflect back over the past week, I'm amazed by the enormous size and importance of the Tunisian olive oil industry. Yet, outside of Tunisian and some bottlers in Italy, Tunisian olive oil is unknown. Tunisian has 1,600,000 hectares (2.47 acres per hectare) of olive trees, 56 million trees and produces an average of 200,000 tons of olive oil per year (66% is exported). Tunisia is the fourth largest producer of olive oil with Spain, Italy and Greece. Folks, that's a sea of olive oil.

I’m sure you're asking, if they produce so much olive oil, then why haven't I tasted Tunisian olive oil or seen it on the shelves in the U.S? You have, but didn't know it. It's disguised. If you've purchased a bottle labeled, "Packed in," "Imported from," or "Product of Italy," you’ve had Tunisian olive oil. Historically, Tunisia has been a major supplier of the bulk bottlers from Italy. These bottlers or bulk producers buy product from countries in the Mediterranean and blend with Italian olive oil and ship to the U.S. and other countries.

Now, change is coming. And to quote an anonymous source, "Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine." The growers of Tunisian are beginning to bottle and label their own Extra Virgin olive oil (including organic) and seeking global importers and distributors from the U.S to Japan.

In recent years other new world countries including the U.S, Australia, Argentina, and Chile have stormed on to the world olive oil stage by planting an astounding amount of olive trees. These are young trees. To its advantage, Tunisia has mature trees and a whole bunch of them. Their challenge is changing the mindset of a bulk supplier for other countries where yield (quantity) is the most important factor to a quality-focused production process. This transformation is occurring rapidly and will be driven more and more by consumers as awareness increases about high quality Extra Virgin olive oil. Hey, world! Here comes 100% Tunisian olive oil.

My next stop—Sicily!

Tunisia: A Rich and Lengthy Heritage

2010-03-20T06:52:00.008-04:00

Yes, the 100% Tunisian Olive Oil Trade Mission has been the experience of a lifetime.

Before getting to olive oil, food and wine, any discussion of Tunisia must begin with the people and their rich cultural heritage. Tunisians are kind, giving, passionate, and welcoming. They make you feel right at home. One of their many mules would be helpful to transport these gifts home to D.C. To understand the people of Tunisia (and olive oil), you must look to their proud and lengthy heritage. Next to Tunisia, Europe is a pup, and America is not even a glimmer in its mother’s eye. Upon arrival, the Phoenicians planted the first olive trees 3000 years-ago. Apparently, there is a 2,500 year-old tree, which we will see on our next trip. The 1000 year-old tree at Fendri Farms had enough “WOW” for me.

The Phoenicians, Byzantines, Carthaginians, Romans, and the French add layers and layers of rich Tunisian cultural heritage. For example, Thuburbo Majus, which we visited on our first day, was the ancient Roman capital city in North Africa. Unlike other Roman ruins that I have visited in the past, less than 10% of the 40 hectares (98 acres) were roped off to the public. You can walk amongst and upon them, touching and feeling as you go. Never have I sensed the presence and energy of ancient Rome like this.

There are the larger ruins at Dougga, but they will be saved for the next trip. The largest and best-preserved ruins outside of Rome reside in this small North African country on the Mediterranean Sea, cradled between Algiers from the west and Libya in the south. This is the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea, which explains its popularity among conquerors throughout history.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the people collected pieces of Roman architechural wonder to build the famous, magnificent mosque in Kairouan (photo). The spread of Islam throughout North Africa and into Europe has its roots in this mosque. Kairouan is considered one of the four Holy cities of this part of the world, along with Mecca (Saudia Arabia), Medina (Saudia Arabia) and Jerusalem (Israel). Interestingly, Medina also refers to old-walled city center in Tunisian cities.

This richness can be conveyed best through photos, so check out the pics at www.facebook.com/crushandpress

Next…olive oil, food and wine….

Tunisia: The Arrival

2010-03-15T00:36:00.003-04:00

Having landed in Tunis and begun my emersion in Tunisian culture and hospitality, you can't help but feel the deep sense of pride and warmth of the Tunisian people. I'm going to like here.

Last night, Lémia CHEKAR THABET (center photo), General Director of Packtec (Tunisian Packaging Technical Centre), an agency within the Tunisian Ministry and Technology, hosted the participants of the 100% Tunisian Olive Oil trade mission with a relaxed, informal reception at the Ramada Plaza Resort. This provided a "parfait" opportunity to spark the knowing of my fellow pilgrims on this olive oil mission and the Packtec team (photo). The entourage includes folks from France, Germany and, of course, a bunch of curious Americans. These trips are always filled with wonderful surprises and unexpected learning. For example, Philippe Juglar, a French agro business consultant, gave us an impromptu coffee tasting lesson. Did you know that the aromas on the nose for coffee have no correlation with the taste on the palate? The learning has only begun.

After one night of wonderful Tunisian food, I must remind myself of my core mantra, “moderate portions, Bill.” As for wine, we were treated to Chateau Saint Augustin’s portfolio including a salmon colored dry Rosé (Princesse Elissa), a blanc (Cesar Auguste) and a red (L’Imperial Magnus). All were delightful and easy drinking. I was excited to learn that a renowned Tunisian chef will accompany us on our journey this week. Stay tuned for some culinary treats and highlights.

Today we will learn about the history of Tunisian olive oil through visits to archeological sites at Thuburbo Majas and Ksar Ezzit Domain (www.ksar-ezzit). The Phoencians first planted olive trees in Tunisian 3000 years ago. We will see some trees older than dirt (well, almost) and an ancient underground mill. And late this afternoon, this band of olive oil brethren travels to the ancient city of Kairouan where we will be treated to dinner and evening entertaining at the Kashbah Hotel Kasbah.kairouan@goldenyasmin.com

Can’t wait!

Now time for a walk on the beach before disembarking at 8 a.m.

Skurnik Wines, 2010 Grand Portfolio Tasting

2010-03-11T17:05:00.008-05:00

Over 700 wines, 300 wine producers from across the globe and a curious and appreciative band of trade professionals gathered at Michael Skurnik Imports 2010 Grand Portfolio tasting on Wednesday, March 10, in New York City. Yes, this was nirvana. Here's a sampling.

Upon arrival, my first stop was with old friends from Burgundy and the northern Rhone Valley of France. Alexandrine Roy, Domaine Marc Roy, of Gevrey Chambertin presented her stable of villages wines from 2007 and one 2006. Elegance and purity exemplify the work of this dedicated young vignernon. Her 2007 Gevrey-Chambertn “Clos Prieur” received 4 stars in the April issue of Decanter. Bridget Roch, who with her husband, Gilbert Clusel, own the highly regarded Domaine Clusel-Roche in Cote Rotie of the northern Rhone. Gilbert stayed behind to finish pruning. Their wines are superb, particularly the “Grandes-Places.” The 2006 is sleeping in my cellar. I’m on the prowl for the 2007. Next comes Stephane Robert of Domaine Tunnel, who produces quality white wines from St. Peray and brilliant reds from Cornas and St. Joseph. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Stephane and his wife, Sandrine at their cave in St. Peray. Not only are they making quality wines, but their generosity and graciousness are endearing. Domaine Colin Morey ‘s line-up of white Burgundy premier crus from Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet showed charming freshness, purity and a harmonious blend of mineality, apple and pear notes, acidity framed by a touch of oak.

Others from France worth noting are Chateau Pibarnon (Bandol), Chateau Laulerie (Bergerac), Domane Lafond (Rhone), and St. Prefert (Chateauneuf du Pape).

For the past three years, I’ve attended the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) in Oregon where I’ve come to know many fabulous producers of Pinot Noir from around the world, particularly from Oregon and California. Many were on hand in New York. Failla’s Ehren Jordon is a pure superstar winemaker. His Pinot Noir and Syrah bottlings are produced with genuine French–like style. They are recommended highly. Other California stars included the “fantastique” portfolio of Peter Michael, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon at its best. The wow wines of Paul Hobbs Kent Rasmussen (long term cellar worthy). Rudy von Strasser of von Strasser winery in Napa was there to fulfill every Cabernet Sauvignon lover’s fantasy.

A strong band of brothers and sisters from Oregon invaded NY. Brickhouse, owned by Doug Tunnell, formerly of CBS news, poured his superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The affable Patricia Green presented her approachable line-up of Pinot Noir. To veterans of IPNC, Patricia is well known for her great t-shirt she sells at her winery. It reads, “Women Taste Better.” Who can argue? Penner-Ash and Cristom were there.

Now, I’ll jump back to the old world…Italy.

Powerful and traditional style Barolos from Domenico Clerico. These classic blockbusters were the stars of the day. Cellar them and forget about them from at least a decade or two. For the impatient, Cavallotto and Marengo offer more approachable gems from Piedmonte. From Montalcino, Alessandra Mililotti Ciacci showcased her charm and quality portfolio. Her Moscali has a solid gathering of Morellino di Scansono, Rosso di Montalcino and outstanding Brunello di Montalcinos.

Finally, there was a surprising discovery from the Iscaro Valley, the northern tip of Italy. Weingut Kofererhof's young winemaker Gunther Kerschlbaumer makes some of the most unique and tasty white wines you will find anywhere. The Kerner varietal was a new one for me. The jasmine and passion fruit aromas were intoxicating. His Riesling, Gewurztraimner, Sylvaner, Pinot Grigo, and Muller-Thurgau were pure delight.

The train is about to pull into Union Station. I need a glass of wine.

The Tunisian Adventure is About to Begin

2010-03-09T17:12:00.001-05:00

Join me on my journey to Tunisia.

http://prlog.org/10567301

The Provençal Classic: Boeuf Daube with an Earthy Rhone Red

2010-02-25T09:11:00.005-05:00

Le Lavandou, a Provençal restaurant in my neighborhood in Cleveland Park in Washington, DC, offers no corkage fee on Monday nights. The owner, Florence Devilliers, usually offers a classic French main course. A red wine boeuf daube (beef stew) provided the perfect meal for this cold, wintery night. After several comments on the pics posted on the Crush and Press Facebook Fan page, sharing the recipe for this classic hearty, comfort dish was a must do.

This version is courtesy of Patricia Wells, “The Provence Cookbook.” I’ve had wonderful success with this cookbook along with her many others. She calls this recipe, “Forgotten Red Wine Daube (pronounced like knob)” or Daube au Vin Rouge Oublié. “Forgotten” refers to the two bottles of red wine that have been forgotten in the cellar and are past optimum maturity for drinking. This is not a problem most of us encounter. Any decent red wine would work, but a Rhone is preferred.

With this recipe, exactness is not imperative. Merely follow the technique and experiment with readily available ingredients. No need to worry if you can’t find an ingredient, except for the beef and the red wine (LOL).

Here’s the recipe:

Equipment: A large sieve; a large heavy-duty casserole, preferably enameled cast-iron, with a lid (my 7 ¼ quart Le Creuset round Dutch oven is perfect); a 6-quart past pot fitted with a colander.

6 lbs. of beef, preferably two or three different cuts, cut into 3-ounce cubes.

The marinade:

2 btls. Red wince, southern Rhone preferred

4 fresh or dried bay leaves

½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

5 whole cloves

Several sprigs fresh thyme

½ cup Extra Virgin olive oil

3 tbls. Extra Virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

30 shallots, peeled and trimmed

Grated zest of 4 oranges

2 cups of pitted olives

3 tbls coarse sea salt

1 lb. penne pasta

1. In a large shallow bowl, combine the meat and the marinade ingredients. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 24-48 hours, turning the meat from time to time. Place the sieve over a bowl. Pour meat into the sieve, reserving the marinade ingredients in the bowl. Discard the bay leaves; cloves, and thyme.

2. In the heavy –duty casserole, heat the oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add several pieces of meat and brown them over moderate heat, regulating the heat to avoid scorching the meat. Do not crowd the pan and is patient: Good browning is essential for the meat to retain flavor and moistness. Thoroughly brown the meat on all sides in several batches, about 10 minutes per batch. As each batch is browned, use tongs (to avoid piercing the meat) to transfer the beef to a platter. Immediately season generously with salt and pepper.

3. Return all the meat to the casserole. Add the reserved marinade and cover. Bring just to a simmer over moderate heat. Once the liquid has come to a simmer, reduce the heat to low. Cook, covered, maintaining a very gentle simmer, until the meat is very tender, 3 to 4 hours. Stir from time to time to evenly coat the pieces of meat with the liquid. During the last 30 minutes, add the shallots, orange zest, and olives, and stir them into the mixture. The sauce should be glossy and slightly thick. Taste for season. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pieces of meat, shallots, olives, and orange zest to another large covered casserole, leaving the sauce in the pan.

Wine: A hearty red works best, particularly the earthiness of the southern or northern Rhone valley. Châteauneuf-du-Papes, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Cairanne, Rasteau, Beaumes-des-Venise and Séguret from the southern Rhone and St. Joseph, Crozes Hermitage, Cornas from the northern Rhone are classic choices. I chose Christine and Eric Saurel’s 2004 Domaine Montirius Vacqueyras, “Le Clos” with a 50-50 split of Grenache and Syrah. The aromas exemplify the region’s “garrigues” soil, a French term meaning sun-scorched herbs and earth. Twice I’ve had the good fortune of experiencing their hospitality at their domaine in Vacqueyras. One of my core mantras in life is to buy from nice people only. The Saurels more than qualify and make an outstanding stable of biodynamic wines. Oak is not to be found at the domaine. Their Gigondas and “Le Confidentiel” are stunning.

My Grandson's First Magnum: 2009 Ridge Monte Bello

2010-02-20T10:26:00.010-05:00

On October 20, 2009, my daughter and son-in-law, Lindsay and Clay, gave me the greatest blessing of all, my first grandchild. He's a big boy and carries the mighty name of Sanders Petty Rhodes. As his grandfather, I decided to start his wine collection. My daughter and son-in-law can handle college. I have the fun stuff covered. In my crazy thinking, everyone should have a few or more bottles (magnums,1.5 liters) of outstanding wine from their birth year to have for those special celebrations--graduations, weddings, new job, new promotion, sunsets... And with his hearty laugh can you imagine the delight that he will be around the dinner table.

As Sanders' self-appointed cellarmaster, today, I acquired the futures (delivery in 2011) on a magnum of the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello, one of the original classic California Bordeaux blends. Magnums are best for long term purposes because of the juice ages much slower. "Sanders, your collection has begun!" Votre Sante!

With an outstanding vintage in 2009 in France, age worthy treasurers from Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhone valley will be on my shopping list as they become available. Now, since I need to be there to enjoy this fine wine with my grandson in 21+ years, I'm off to the gym.

U.S Olive Oil Trade Mission to Tunisia

2010-02-19T10:34:00.004-05:00

I am excited to be on this olive oil trade mission to Tunisia.

http://www.thefirstreporter.com/press-release/us-olive-oil-buyers-on-a-mission/

This will be a fabulous opportunity to meet the individual olive oil producers and learn about he culinary heritage of Tunisia. Following my week in Tunisia, I will cross the 62 mile stretch of the Mediterranean Sea to Sicily. From there I plan to work my way north through Italy, then on to France. My itinerary includes stops in Provence, the Rhone Valley, and a few days of visiting many outstanding wine domaines in Burgundy. Of course, the adventure will conclude with a short visit to Paris. There should be an abundance to write about. My new Flip video camera is packed. Please join me for the journey via cyberspace.

More on the Smoke Point of Olive Oil from Richard Gawel

2010-02-05T09:58:00.006-05:00

Here's Richard Gawel's comment on a Washington state food writer discouraging her readers to avoid cooking with olive oil. There's no need to include her article. We have enough misinformation circulating as is. As I mentioned in my earlier blog post, Australian Richard Gawel, is an internationally acclaimed researcher, taster, consultant and all around guru regarding olive oil. When he speaks people listen. Moreover he's extremely humorous, never taking himself too seriously.

"Good quality low acidity extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) has a pretty high smoke point, unlike the low quality EU EVOO that people buy at their local supermarket. The olivey flavor of EVOO might not suit what you are trying to do with it, but that's got nothing to do with smoke point. Not many folks know this, but the artificial fat soluble preservatives added to all refined oils (canola, 'olive oil' aka non EVOO, vegetable, flaxseed etc) such as butylated hydroxytoluene and butylated hydroxyanisole add around 15-30F to the smoke point of these oils. Nice if you like eating the stuff. Lastly EVOO doesn't break down any quicker than any other oil with heating. In fact, the natural preservatives called polyphenols that you find in EVOO protect it from heat degradation."

On related point, I asked Richard about the smoke point of refined olive oil. This is the nasty stuff processed with high heat and chemicals from the waste and residue of the pressing of Extra Virgin olive oil. On your supermarket shelf it's often labeled, "Extra Light Olive Oil." Eventually the FDA must stop this labeling. First, "Light" has nothing Extra Virgin. This a total misrepresentation to the consumer.

Here's my question to Richard, "Chefs often state that refined olive oil has a smoke point higher than Extra Virgin. What are the actual facts?"

Richard's response:

"Hi Bill
Yes that certainly is true. By European law, refined olive oils must have a (very low) acidity of no more than 0.03% (as anything more than that suggests that the refining process was incomplete). Anyway low acidity = higher smoke point. Also refined oils have preservatives added to them such as BHT and BHA. These help raise the smoke point of the oil by between 8 and 22C. Obviously extra virgin olive oils are preservative free so they don’t get this artificial leg-up smoke point wise."

For those concerned about preservatives, you might want to consider using high quality Extra Virgin olive oil more frequently.

Smoke Point of Olive Oil: Rubbish

2010-02-03T10:25:00.002-05:00

Have you heard celebrity chefs tell you not to cook with Extra Virgin olive oil because of its low smoke point? This is rubbish, according Australian olive oil researcher and guru, Richard Gawel. Here are his scientific, fact-based comments on the subject.

http://www.aromadictionary.com/EVOO_blog/?p=147&cpage=1#comment-9

I have written previously that Richard Gawel should be cloned by the olive oil industry. He is a one person truth squad about this magical nectar. Gawel is not alone. Other international researchers are in complete accord with his findings.

Crush and Press' Response to a Reporter's Inquiry About the Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Oilve OIL

2010-02-03T00:30:00.008-05:00

For your information and entertainment, here is Crush and Press' response to a reporter's inquiry about the health benefits, etc. of olive oil.

I am thrilled to respond to your HARO inquiry on behalf of Bill Sanders, a widely recognized authority on wine and olive oil and Founder of Crush and Press. Please see Bill’s insights below, and read on for his complete BIO. Please feel free to contact Bill directly for more information or for an interview, or if you prefer, contact me and I can help in the arrangements. Our contact info follows at the bottom of this email.

Is olive oil really all that it claims to be?

Yes and No! All Extra Virgin olive oils are not the same. Unfortunately there is too much poor quality olive oil imported into the US. Because the U.S. has never adopted Federal standards for Extra Virgin olive oil, we have become the dumping ground for low quality and adulterated (i.e.hazelnut and canola) olive oils from Europe. These oils do not have the flavor and health benefits purported to be contained in genuine Extra Virgin olive oil. High quality Extra Virgin olive oil meets and can exceed claims about health benefits and flavor.
In the US "Extra Virgin" printed on the label is not a good indication of quality. The US. has not adopted the International Olive Oil Council's standards for Extra Virgin. The state of California has adopted standards that are more stringent than the IOOC. These standards relate to levels of acidity, flavor and the balancing of the critical attributes: fruity, bitter and pungency. California olive oils carry a seal, "Certified Extra Virgin." For more information, see the California Olive Oil Council (www.cooc.com)
In the US the act of placing a bottle of tap water on a store shelf having a label with the printed words, "Extra Virgin," is not illegal, except, perhaps, in California.
Some olive oils are labeled simply as "olive oil." These are refined oils. Heat and chemicals have been used extract the remaining oil from the waste and residue of the original pressing.
Throughout the Mediterranean there are olive trees that have been bearing fruit for centuries. In Tunisia, there are olive trees reported to been planted by the Phoenicians 3.000 years ago. Now, would you like to take advantage of those aging properties?

Why is "Virgin." better?

High quality Extra Virgin olive oil has more flavor, freshness and a higher polyphenol component (and other health benefits) than other seed oils and refined olive oil.
"Extra Light Olive Oil" has nothing to do with lower calories and offers little flavor and health benefits as compared to high quality Extra Virgin olive oil.
Fruity, bitter and pungency attributes are strong indicators of flavor and presence of healthy components.

What are the health benefits of "High Quality Extra Virgin" olive oil?

Olive oil is nature's rustoleum!
Olive slows oxidation, i.e. aging, i.e. rusting.
Olive oil oxidizes slower than saturated and polyunsaturated fats.
Olive oil is the heart of the Mediterranean diet which has been proven to lower incidence of heart disease and cancer.
Oleic acid, a monounsaturated fat, composes 80% of the fat in olive oil which offers established cardiovascular benefits.
Oleic acid reduces LDLs, the bad cholesterol without decreasing HDLs, the good cholesterol.
Oleic acid as been found to decrease the incidence of artherosclerosis and thrombosis.
It has been proven to be beneficial to diabetics.
Contains high levels of polypenols, antioxidants which slow the aging or rusting process.
Olive oil is liquid Advil or Aleve. Oleocanthal, a compound present in olive oil, is similar to ibuprofen.
Contains a powerful form of vitamin E, nature's anti-aging drug.
Aids digestion. Next time you are suffering from indigestion take a tablespoon of a high quality olive oil.
More on Mediterranean Diets, edited by A.P. Simopoulos and F. Visoli, offers a comprehensive summary of the research regarding olive oil.

And what exactly is cold pressed?

Most olive oil experts agree that "cold pressed" is a worthless term and adds no value for the consumer. Asking for a cold pressed olive oil is the equivalent of walking into a wine store and asking for wines with alcohol only. The term offers absolutely no assurance of quality.
A major benefit of olive oil is the production process which involves cooler temperatures, little water and no chemicals. It's a nature process. Speed of moving the harvested fruit from the tree to the processing mill without delay to avoid oxidation and sanitation in the mill itself are critical factors in the production of high quality Extra Virgin olive oil.
The harvest date on an estate bottled olive oils offers an indication of freshness. Olive oil is not a stable product. Oxidation begins before the fruit is picked from the tree. Air, light, heat and age accelerates oxidation leading to rancidity. Officially olive oil should be consumed within 18-24 months of harvest. Most experts now agreed it's best to be consumed within 12-18 months. Again, this depends on the particular bottle of oil.

ABOUT BILL SANDERS

Bill Sanders is a widely recognized authority on wine and olive oil and the Founder of Crush and Press, a company designed to “elevate lives through food with love.” The Kentucky-raised gourmet offers a rare combination of culinary expertise and a resume of success across an array of businesses and lifestyle interests.

Bill’s demonstrated his inherent passion for olive oil, wine and cooking over the years by conducting hundreds of tastings and seminars. His proclivity for olive oil ultimately led to University of California-Davis’ Sensory Evaluation of Olive Oil where he finished third in tasting tests among fifty industry insiders. A subsequent educational focus on wine prompted a long list of culinary certifications and visits to many of the great olive oil and wine regions of the world.

With a professional life that included a successful sweep through the intricacies of governing in Washington D.C., Bill’ enjoyed a career that includes the business of international thoroughbred racing and breeding, the pressures of managing in high technology manufacturing, event planning and video production. He offers world-class seminars focusing on “living the better life,” and became a regular guest on CBS affiliate WKYT-TV’s AfterNoon in Lexington, Kentucky.

Named recently as the U.S. spokesman for 100% Tunisian Olive Oil (www. 100percenttunisian.com), Bill continues to share his expertise and flavorful stories about his travels today through his writing and speaking engagements. His blog about olive oil and wine can be found at www.crushandpress.com.

And there is more…

· Passed the Master-Level Certification for the Rhone and Provence wine regions from the French Wine Society, 2009;

· Attended the Beyond Extra Virgin Conference, an international conference on excellence in olive oil, from agriculture to sensory evaluation to the culinary arts, sponsored by the University of California-Davis Olive Center, Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science and The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Greystone, June 21-23, 2009;

· Completed an advanced sensory evaluation of olive oil course, Raising the Bar on Olive Oil Quality: Views from Down Under (Richard Gawel-AUS and Margaret Edwards-NZ), University of California-Davis Olive Center, 2009;

· Completed Sensory Evaluation of Olive Oil at the UC-Davis in 2003 and 2004;

· Studied at the CIA at Greystone professional wine studies program, 2004-2005;

· Trained at the L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda, Maryland;

· Trained in sensory evaluation of olive oil and Tuscan cooking at Giuseppe Grappolini’s Centro Culturale Olivarte in Loro Ciuffenna, Italy, 2003;

· Executive producer, a two-time TELLY Award winner for video for non-broadcast in government relations, 2007 & 2008;

· And is a graduate of the University of Kentucky and Salmon P. Chase College of Law and member of the Kentucky Bar Association.

ABOUT CRUSH AND PRESS

Founded in 2009 by Bill Sanders, Crush and Press is a company that “promotes the enjoyment of these wonderful nectars by providing consumers and companies with information on the proper and healthy use of olive oil and different ways to explore wines.” The Washington, DC-based firm provides information, training and tips for exploring, using and enjoying olive oil and wine. Crush and Press will soon be enhancing its services by enabling web visitors to purchase olive oil and other gourmet food products through its online store.

###

Bill Sanders

Founder and CEO

Crush and Press

bill@crushandpress.com

www.crushandpress.com

Mobile: 202.744.2176

Gretchen Kihm-Stegall

PR Representative for Crush and Press

c/o Trifecta Marketing Resources, LLC

W 847.681.0506 | C 847.922.5931

Twitter: PRgretchen

www.trifectaresources.com

Sales. Marketing. PR Solutions.

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Spanish Basque Chicken and Chorizo Sauté & a Traditional Style Rioja

2010-01-31T10:59:00.004-05:00

For a snowy Saturday night in January here is a heart warming option: Spanish Basque Chicken and Chorizo Sauté. Yet, it is yummy any time. In fact, we served a version of this at my daughter's wedding, which was in the heat of a Nashville August. Spicy dishes in the summer makes you sweat, thus having a cooling effect.

The star of this recipe is the divine rich and spicy sauce. And the 2004 Marqués de Murrietta Reserva Rioja made a terrific marriage between food and wine. This bodega produces a traditional versus a modern style Rioja. Traditional Rioja is earthy in contrast to the fruit forwardness of a modern style Rioja. This style mirrors the earthy flavors of the dish nicely.

Moreover, the dry Sherry (Fino or Manzanillo are both dry styles) is a lovely companion for the chef while the dish is cooking (Safety tip: Avoid drinking wine until all chopping has been completed and the knife has been cleaned and put away). A glass of Fino or Manzanillo can be so refreshing during the summer. Fino Sherry is popular at the beach in southern Spain. It's a taste that requires getting use to, but worth it. It makes a fun aperitif before dinner.

Total preparation time: 1 Hr 15 Min

6 Servings

4 ounces dry chorizo sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 Tbls. Extra Virgin olive oil

6 whole chicken legs, split (3 1/2 lbs total)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 medium red bell peppers, cut into 1/2 inch-wide strips

2 medium red onions, thinly sliced

6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 large thyme sprigs (dried works)

1 cup cherry tomatoes halved (I didn't have the tomatoes so I used tbls. of tomato pasta)

3/4 cup dry sherry (Again, last I substituted dry Marsala)

2 tsp. sweet paprika

3/4 tsp. crushed red pepper ( any hot pepper--I used Scotch Bonnet)

One 9-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and pressed dry (use marinated artichokes but rinse them thoroughly and dry)

2 Tbls. shredded basil (or fresh Parsley)

Crusty French bread, for serving

1. Heat a large skillet. Add the chorizo and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until lightly browned and some of the fat is rendered, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chorizo to a plate.

2. Heat the olive oil in the skillet. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until well browned, 15 minutes. Add the chicken to the chorizo.

3. Add the peppers, onions, garlic and thyme to the skillet and cook over moderate heat until just barely softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cherry tomatoes, dry sherry and crushed red pepper and cook for 1 minute, scraping up any browned bits from the pan.

4.Return the chicken and chorizo to the skillet. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat, turning occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through 25 minutes. Add the artichokes, tucking them in between the chicken pieces. Raise the heat to moderate and cook uncovered until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a deep platter. Stir the basil into the sauce and spoon the sauce over the chicken. Serve with crusty bread.

Source: Daniel Boulud, published in the 2005 Food & Wine Annual Cookbook (always an outstanding source of fun and easy entertaining recipes).

Miracles, Mother Nature and Reflecting

2010-01-28T12:32:00.010-05:00

If we possess any amount of self-honesty, there are few of us, including me, who have the patience and fortitude to face the challenges of producing terrific, or simply good, wine on a consistent basis vintage after vintage. Of course, this holds true for olive oil or any agricultural product. The pain and anxiety caused by the perils of Mother nature each year can shake the most grounded souls. Fortunately for us, there are those who have chosen this path.

Here's a link to Jancis Robinson's summary of the 2008 vintage in Burgundy, http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a201001153.html She articulates the anguish and uncertainty that vignerons (vine growers), vintners and winemakers often endure to bring this pleasurable treasure to our table. I have always stated that I am no critic, a promoter and supporter only. Reading Ms. Robinson's recount of the challenging 2008 vintage causes me to appreciate and applaud the dedicated folks who devote their lives to bringing us fun and enjoyment. Rather than escaping our daily challenges via a glass of wine, let us pause and reflect and celebrate those who make the miracle of the vine possible. Votre Santé!

Here Comes 100% Tunisian Olive Oil

2010-01-25T13:21:00.009-05:00

At the recent Winter Fancy Food Show, January 17-19, in San Francisco, 100% Tunisian Olive Oil showcased producers of this revered liquid gold to U.S. and international trade professionals. Before discussing the attributes of Tunisian olive oil any further, it is best to begin with some basics. Since becoming the U.S. spokesman for 100% Tunisian olive oil, I find myself answering two frequently asked questions: Where is Tunisia? And, (with a quizzical look) Tunisia produces olive oil? So before discussing the attributes of Tunisian olive oil, I will share a bit of the country's background.

First, Tunisia lies in the southern Mediterranean in North Africa nestled between Algeria and Libya. Tunisia achieved its independence from France in 1956, thus French and Arabic are the prevailing languages. The country's first president, Habib Bourguiba, dominated the country for 31 years, repressing Islamic fundamentalism and establishing rights for women unmatched by any other Arab nation. It's not uncommon to find women holding high-level positions in the government and they are prominent, entrepreneurial players in the country's olive oil industry... Looking for your next vacation spot? Tunisia's resorts and beaches are the destination of choice for holiday-seeking Europeans. Here is some good news. The current currency exchange offers fabulous value for your maligned dollar.

Next, does Tunisia produce olive oil? The short answer is yes. Tunisia has a 3000 year marriage with the olive tree. Until now, the historical role of Tunisian olive oil has been the supplier of the European bulk olive oil companies. The labels of those bottles of olive oil on the mass supermarket shelves in the U.S. usually state, "Imported from Italy," "Packed in Italy," and often "Product of Italy." These bottles are comprised mostly of olive oil from Tunisian and other countries. Unfortunately with these, they often fail to receive the best of care and handling and do not offer Extra Virgin olive oil of high quality. Sadly, there are reported instances where these bulk oils have been adulterated with other seed oils, despite being labeled Extra Virgin.

Now, here comes 100% Tunisian Olive Oil. The Tunisian government is determined to position its nation's largest agricultural export in more favorable light. The mission of 100% Tunisian olive oil is to promote and seek import representation for these individual growers who are bottling and labeling the nectar produced from their own hard earned efforts. The producers highlighted at the Winter Fancy Food Show are listed here (flavor style in parenthesis):

a.. Al Jazira (mellow);

b.. La Medina-Jerba (robust);

c.. Riviére d'Or (three Extra Virgin olive oils-reserve, organic and conventional-ranging from medium spicy to robust);

d.. Terra Delyssa (organic and conventional-mellow);

e.. and Virginia (medium spicy).

Currently two of these producers are represented by distributors in the U.S, Riviére d'Or (contact Fateh Jebara, Mediterranean Expo in New Jersey at www.mexpofood.com, email: fjebara@mexpofood.com) and Terra Delyssa (contact Wajih Rekik, Mediterranean Delight in Houston at www.igotoil.com, email: wajih@igotoil.com).

Now, please stay tuned for future postings as we journey through the world of Tunisian olive oil and discover their marvelous indigenous olive varieties, Chemléli and Chetoui.

Meanwhile, for more information, check out the Web site www.100percenttunisian.com and Twitter @tunisianevoo Check out the Facebook Fan page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Johnson-City-TN/Tunisian-Olive-Oil/68590872627

Photo: The team: Al Hamman, Hamman Marketing Associates; Hager Fenniche and Mahdi Djebali, PackTec-Tunisia; and Bill Sanders, Crush and Press

Calistoga Wine Tastings at von Strasser, Failla, Zahtila, Vincent Arroyo and August Briggs

2010-01-21T21:15:00.009-05:00

Despite the continuing down pour of rain, the past two days of wine tasting in Napa have been about quality, not quantity. My many thanks to Mark Skinner, general manager, at von Strasser Winery in the Diamond Mountain District near Calistoga for a splendid barrel tasting of their 2008 portfolio. These are outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon wines with their added specialty, Petit Verdot. Thanks for recommending the duck burger at Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen for lunch. Yummmmmy!

This afternoon the entire team at Failla Wines rolled out their warm hospitality. Special thanks goes to Kathy and Jessica for a superb tasting. Many thanks to husband and wife owners, Ehren Jordan and Anne Marie Failla, and their charming daughter, Audrey, for the warm and gracious welcoming. These European (French) style Pinot Noirs and Syrahs beckon my heart.

Yesterday Laura Zahtila walked me through her excellent Zinfandels and Cabernet Sauvignons. Her Oat Hill Zin rocks. Tastings at Vincent Arroyo (Petit Syrah at its best) and a solid portfolio at August Briggs brightened an uncustomary rainy day in Napa.

Good juice!

Nice Article on Tunisian Olive Oil

2010-01-11T11:05:00.002-05:00

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/life/2010/01/08/stories/2010010850040100.htm

US Spokesman for 100% Tunisian Olive Oil: Visit Us at the Fancy Food Show, Booth #3438

2010-01-07T15:20:00.008-05:00

I'm very proud and excited to announce that I have been named the US spokesman for 100% Tunisian olive oil. Here's the official press release. http://www.100percenttunisian.com/news/BillSanders.htm

Tunisian has been producing delicate and fragrant high quality olive oil for centuries. I'm thrilled to be affiliated with my new Tunisian friends. After all, Crush and Press has always been about promoting small producers of olive oil and wine. This alliance aligns perfectly with 100% Tunisian olive oil's mission to promote the individual growers of this marvelous country and its rich heritage (and gorgeous, sunny beaches). This a history buffs dream.

If you haven't already, I urge you to consider adding Tunisian olive oil to your kitchen pantry. If your attending the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco stop by exhibit booth # 3438 and taste this liquid gold.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! No Matter How You Say It!

2009-12-31T04:00:00.002-05:00

Happy New Year! Bonne Année! Felice Anno Nuovo! Feliz Año Nuevo! Shana Tova! Ein glückliches neues Jahr! La Multi Ani si Un An Nou Fericit! Xin nian yu kuai! Sehe Bokmanee Bateuseyo! Selamat Tahun Baru! Voorspoedige nuwe jaar! Gott Nytt År! Kul 'am wa antum bikhair! Gelukkig nieuwjaar! Hauoli Makahiki hou! Eutychismenos o kainourgios chronos! Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu! Onnellista uutta vuotta!

Best wishes to all for a healthy and prosperous 2010.

Olio Nuovo 2009: Mascio from Umbria

2009-12-22T13:07:00.004-05:00

For many years now my family has enjoyed the Christmas tradition of having an Extra Virgin olive oil from the recent harvest. As the Italians would say, "Olio Nuovo/Novello.” Most years the new oil shared at our table is from either Italy or California. Many times the annual oil was one that I had participated in or at least witnessed the production in the mill. The aggressive grassy aromas hurl me instantly back to the memorable day of those pressings. Being in the mill during the harvest is truly magical. I strongly recommend the experience.

This year was no different. In early December I placed my order with a California source for two bottles of olio nuovo. Unfortunately, they have not arrived.

Not to worry, good fortune is coming my way. Yesterday morning I was scrambling to pack the car for the eight hour drive from Washington, DC to Kentucky to spend the holidays with my family. As I was about to embark on my journey, Mary, who manages the front desk during the day at my building, yelled, “Mr. Sanders, WAIT! I have a package for you.” After looking around for my father (nobody calls me Mister), I did what any gift loving mortal would do, I stopped. As I turned to Mary, she was holding a medium size box. To my surprise the sender address was from Italy. I had forgotten that Gioia Pinna, who with Giuseppe Giancalini, owns Agricola Mascio Farm (http://www.agricolamascio.it/), located in the small picturesque village of Trevi in the Italian region of Umbria, was sending samples of her two olive oils for me to taste. So, with a “Joy to the World” smile, I wrapped the box in swaddling cloth and laid it in the trunk of my the car and sailed off through the blowing snow and tractor trailer rigs of western Maryland and West Virginia. Please note this is following 20” inches of snow from the weekend.

After the arduous drive and some semi-restful sleep, I bounce out of bed with my eyes all aglow and rushed to open this early Christmas treasure. Voila! There was one bottle each of Mascio's “Principe di Mascio” and ‘Gioio di Trevi” from the 2009 harvest. OLIO NUOVO! There was also a small bottle of 2008 Gioia for comparison purposes. The classic Italian varietals Moraiolo (80%), Leccino and Frantoio (20%) comprise the blend. Now I will give the oils a couple days to recover from the trip before tasting. Please, stay tuned for my tasting notes. Shipping this time of year can leave an olive a bit chilly. You can be assured my anticipation awaits the typical grassy, floral and artichoke aromas. Umbrian oils have a medium spicy character compared to their robust neighbors from Tuscany. This medium style seems to suit the American palate which has not grown up on olive oil.

It’s worth mentioning that many growers produce an olio nuovo in addition to their classic bottling. Technically speaking these are Mascio’s classic oils. The olive oil geeks can argue about that one. New oil is more assertive with bitter, spicy and peppery flavors which are the polyphenols (antioxidants) which give quality olive oil its healthy benefits. They can often bring a prize fighter to his knees with just one sip. Great stuff!

An indication of quality and attention to detail is Mascio's participation in the transparency and traceability system in Italy (http://www.agricolamascio.it/index.php/en/follow-the-olive-oil-drops). Place and time of each lot of olive trees can be traced to precision. As you know my rant is about freshness and verifying the harvest date of olive oil. This system is a huge step in providing consumers with confidence about the quality and freshness of the olive oil they are purchasing. Coincidentally, traceability was a major topic of discussion among researchers from olive oil producing countries at a recent conference in Tunis, Tunisia (http://allafrica.com/stories/200912170342.html). Do you know anyone who attended?

Let's start the holiday celebration by getting your hands on a bottle of olive oil from the recent 2009 harvest, olio nuovo. And you, too, will be hooked into a new holiday tradition, a healthy and flavorful one.

And for you, Gioia, grazie for the olio nuovo and saving our family's holiday tradition.

Finally I want to wish all of you and yours a joyful and safe holiday season and remember, FRESH is BEST!

2009-12-16T14:46:00.001-05:00

Stéphane Derenoncourt Update on the 2009 Vintage in Bordeaux

2009-12-16T10:33:00.005-05:00

Here's an interview with super wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt about the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux.

http://premierepresse.com/newsletters/images/spe/ca1a78ecebfbe2ef4f49d76d7ad53f57_pdf_614850227.pdf

A Comment on Olive Oil Longevity

2009-12-10T07:39:00.005-05:00

This comes from leading international food entrepreneur, Liz Tagami.

http://www.linkedin.com/newsArticle?viewDiscussion=&articleID=93036225&gid=1706607&split_page=1#comment_1

I agree that 12-18 months is preferred when considering the age of an olive oil. The challenge is that retailers will not unload old oil. For most major retailers, the 2009 harvest will not appear on their shelves until late summer or fall. This is a bad strategy on the part of retailers, which does not serve the best interest of the consumer.

This discussion is about an unopened bottle. Once the bottle is opened, it should be consumed within 30-60 days.

Buying Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Fresh is Best!

2009-12-09T17:32:00.009-05:00

Because there are no Federal Standards for Extra Virgin olive oil in the United States, our country has become the dumping ground of inferior, adulterated olive oils from Europe. The words “Extra Virgin” offer no quality guarantee. A label containing this renowned phrase can be slapped on a bottle of spring water or soda pop and sold as Extra Virgin olive oil. Is this an illegal activity? No, except, perhaps, in California. Most American consumers of olive oil are consuming a product that is flavorless, flawed and lacking in the health benefits they are desperately seeking. The Western Farm Press reported on November 30, 2009 that California Olive Council Executive Director Patricia Darragh has been sharply critical of a lack of federal standards for olive oil. “We have become a market for oil that is potentially adulterated or mislabeled,” Darragh said.

This is unfortunate given the health benefits of olive oil are extolled in the press every day. The benefits are an established, scientific fact. Most consumers get that. What they don’t understand is all olive oils are not the same. They are unaware and confused about buying and using this natural nectar to maximum its flavor and health benefits.

How can you be assured of buying quality Extra Virgin olive oil? To begin, the source of the oil is crucial. The mislabeled, adulterated oils from Europe referred to earlier are usually "bulk" olive oils. These are found commonly on the shelves of mega supermarkets. They are cheap. When you see the words “Imported" or "Packed from Italy,” run. The source of fruit for these oils can be from most anywhere in the Mediterranean, and perhaps, cut with other seed oils. Some bulk producers are now listing on the label the countries supplying the fruit. Moreover, the age of the oil is usually a mystery and the shipping and storage conditions are often suspect. Consequently, flavor, freshness and health benefits are lacking.

Now here's what you want. Quality can be found with estate Extra Virgin olive oils. With these olive oils the when and the where are known. The individual grower has sole control over the process from tree to bottle. The fruit is usually handpicked (some excellent oils are mechanically harvested). With these dedicated, hardworking folks there's no sourcing fruit from another country. Their trees are family. The tender loving care is evident by their flavor and freshness.

Now, how do you know if it's an estate olive oil? The answer often lies in the fine print... the harvest date. The front or back label should state the date or year of harvest. The label will read, "November 2008" or simply the year. Some oils from the recent 2009 harvest are available now. These are referred to as new, nuovo or nouveau Extra Virgin olive oils. Intense pungency and pepperiness are their trademark, and super healthy. Most of the oil from the 2009 harvest will become available by early spring.

Why is the harvest date important? Olive oil is not like wine. It does not get better with age. The fresher the oil, the more flavorful and healthful it is. Oxidation and deterioration begins immediately after the fruit is picked from the tree, if not before. Olive oil should be consumed within 18-24 months from the harvest (18 months is better). In the northern hemisphere olives are harvested in the autumn, usually October, November and December. The southern hemisphere harvest occurs during our spring. Presently, the freshest available oils are from the southern hemisphere, except for the recently harvested new oils.

Alternative to the harvest date, a Best Used By (expiration) date is commonly listed on the bottle or label. Generally, this date is two years (or 18 months) subsequent to the harvest. For example, if the bottle indicates it’s Best to use by 12/10,” then you know the olives were harvested in the autumn of 2008. Buyer beware, many gourmet retailers will gladly sell you a three or four year-old olive oil for $35-40.

To what regions of the globe should be you looking for these estate growers? Your options are vast and fun. Here's a sampling of treasurers. First the earlier negative reference to "Imported from Italy," should no way reflect poorly on the Italian estate growers. These passionate folks produce outstanding olive oil. For your holiday gift giving consider the 2008 harvest in Tuscany was the best in a decade. Other regions in Italy produce fabulous olive oils. For ten years, my desert island oil (should I ever be stranded on one) is Ravidá from Sicily. Spain is now pouring out a flood of extraordinary oils. My good friend Rosa Vañó produces a steller portfolio at Castillo de Canena. Italy's historic bulk supplier, Tunisia, now has an expanding group of estate growers producing and bottling quality olive oil. France has Jean-Benôit Hugues' Castelas in Le Baux,Provence.

California has entered a oil boom and not with rigs. Chris Banthien's Le Colline in Santa Cruz and Apollo's Mistral have been my favorites for years. Australia (Rylstone), New Zealand, South Africa, and Chile (Olavé) are storming on to the scene with quality product that is worthy of a place in your pantry. So explore and have fun. Yet, always remember that Fresh is Best.

Discovering Bordeaux: Marvelous Margaux

2009-12-02T09:40:00.009-05:00

Bordeaux is considered by wine experts to be the greatest wine region in the world (Burgundy and the Rhone Valley are my personal preferences). It is difficult, however, to argue with that lofty praise after tasting 50+ quality Bordeaux wines at yesterday's "Discovering Bordeaux," a trade tasting and seminar event sponsored by Robert Cavanaugh's Wine Adventure. When writing about wine, we should not assume the basics, as Robert Cavanaugh aptly stated. First, Bordeaux is a wine region, not a grape. The region is located in southwest France, near the Atlantic Ocean and spread along the Gironde River.

Jay Youmans, the only Master of Wine in the Washington, DC area (24 in the U.S) and owner of the Capital Wine School (www.capitalwineschool.com) stated three primary reasons for Bordeaux's greatness. The first two are low alcohol (but rising) and high acidity which makes the wines wonderful partners with food. The third is their extraordinary ability to improve with age. No wine region in the world, particularly new world, can compare to Bordeaux's age worthiness. Grand Cru Burgundy and the Northern Rhone's Hermitage and Cote Rotie regions have rightful claims to excellent aging.

Now, here my thoughts and reflections from an afternoon of listening to Bordeaux experts and tasting the fine wines of the region.

To aid your understanding of Bordeaux, Youmans also offered a useful primer. To summarize briefly, Bordeaux is split by the Gironde River into the Right and Left Bank. The famous communes of Margaux, St. Julien, Paulliac and St. Estephe reside on the Left Bank (west of the river). Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominate grape variety because of the gravel composition of the landscape. The better drainage of the gravel allows the Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen earlier. Here the wines are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Right Bank (east) includes the renowned Pomerol and St Emilon and other lesser known appellations. The Right Bank is primarily Merlot, which now accounts for more than 60% of all wine produced in Bordeaux. The high composition of clay in the soil which is cooler and retains water easily is more suitable to Merlot. Because of the lack of drainage, Cabernet Sauvignon has difficulty ripening in clay.

Now, there's much more to understanding Bordeaux such as the classification systems. Those discussions will be parked for future postings. For an in depth study, read The Complete Bordeaux, by Stephen Brook.

We need some wine ideas for the holidays.

From yesterday's tasting, the wines from Margaux were my personal favorites. Elyse Kudo, General Manger, Monument Fines Wines, offered a fantasy line-up. The 2006 Palmer Alter Ego, second wine of Chateau Palmer, typified the elegance and femininity of Margaux. The 2006 Chateau Malescot's silkiness and brightness could get my nod for best of the day (picking bests is a senseless exercise). My old friend Chateau D'Angulet illustrated the promise of the renowned 2005 vintage. The soft and integrated tannins framed the gorgeous fruit aromas. There was none of the drying coffee sensation on the palate that often comes from top youthful Bordeaux. Remember, this wine was from 2005, which is not known for its youthful drinkability. The 2006 Chateau Prieure-Lichine showed more richness, while retaining that Margaux elegance. Chateaux La Gurgue and Monbrison are worth a look. Simply, Margaux wines are made with food in mind.

The 2005 Phelan Segur showed surprising approachability for a St. Estephe, often burly when young. This a consistent chateau worth looking at every year. Youmans remarked that wines from St. Estephe are good value compared to the complete lack of value in Paulliac, St. Julien and Margaux. More Merlot is being added to the blends to improve approachability in their youth. St. Estephe is worth exploring.

Maisons Marques & Domaines presented a steller group led by the wines of former Decanter "Person of the Year and owner of Chateau Petrus, Christian Mouiex. From 2006, his Chateau Magdelaine, St. Emillion, (Premier Grand Cru Classe) and Pomerol properties Chateau Certan-Marzelle (Pomerol) and Lafleur-Gazin showcase Mouiex's distinct style which is the antithesis of the modern, international style of big, blockbuster fruit. These highly structured wines require patience, but worth the wait. Another St. Estephe, Chateau de Pez, is recommended.

Here are some other noteworthy wines that merit your consideration: Chateau Loudene (Medoc); Chateau Fleur de Rigaud (Bordeaux Superieur); Chateau Rilet Rouge (Fronsac), Chateau St. Andre Corbin, St. Andre Corbin, St. Georges St. Emilion; Chateau Larose de Gruard, St. Julien (formerly Sarget de Gruard-Larose and second wine of Chateau Guard-Larose); Chateau d'Aggassac (Haut Medoc); and Chateau Pibran (Paulliac).

Here are some other regions worth exploring. Pessac-Leognan in the Graves has to be at the top of the list. Also, venture into some smaller or lesser known appellations such as Haut Medoc, Listrac, Moulis, and Fronsac where good value can be found.

For most of us, it is impractical to attempt mastering a large region such as Bordeaux. The good news is that we do not have to. The fun is always in the adventure.

Olive Oil Line-up: Gregory Peck, Halle Berry, Audrey Hepburn.....

2009-12-01T10:59:00.006-05:00

Along with Florence Devilliers, Le Lavandou Restaurant, Tony Quinn, Cleveland Park Wines, and Antoine Songy, Robert Kacher Selections, I cordially invite you to taste, learn and shop the wines from the South of France, olive oils from around the world and food of the Mediterranean. Chef Edith Reyes is preparing a fabulous menu of tasty treats to showcase the olive oils and wines. Wine and olive oils will also be available to purchase for your holiday gift giving.

Costs: $45 (tax and gratuity included). RSVP at (202) 966-3002, (202) 966-8530 or by email: contact@lavandoudc.com or bill@crushandpress.com

Location: Le Lavandou Restaurant, 3321 Connecticut Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (Cleveland Park-across from the Uptown Theatre)

Here's the line-up of magnificent Extra Virgin olive oils that we will be tasting. To help describe the flavor and style profile metaphorically, each olive oil is compared with a famous celebrity.

Olave Organic (Chile) This olive oil producer is blending Italian and Spanish cultivars (varietals) and challenging the old world with price and quality much like the wines of South America. This might well be described as the Halle Berry, lovely texture and gorgeous with a little spice.

Colonna (Italy) Produced by the Countess Marina Colonna near Rome is the Audrey Hepburn with its undeniable grace, elegance and class. Say no more!

L'Estornell Organic (Spain) The Vea family standard bearer from Northwest Spain in Catalonia is produced 100% from the Arbequina cultivar. I refer to this olive oil as the Jennifer Aniston and Adam Sadler, charming, popular with hints of nuttiness.

Castelas Organic (France) Jean-Benoit Hugues produces a robust, high phenolic (the super healthy stuff) oil from traditional French varieties in the foothills below the beautiful village of Les Baux in Provence. This is genuine Clint Eastwood, explosive and in your face, but polished.

Ravida Organic (Sicily) The Ravida family traditionally produces one of the finest olive oils in Italy. This has been my desert island oil for over ten years and can best be described by no other than Gregory Peck, manly, suave, debonair, and always gives a stellar performance.

Please join us Sunday for a fun afternoon of olive oil, wine and food. Happy Holidays!

Stuffing Recipe that Rocks

2009-11-22T21:40:00.007-05:00

Stuffing has never been one of my favorite Thanksgiving dishes, until there was stuffing with pancetta and chestnuts. This recipe is courtesy of celebrity chef, Giada de Laurentis and it has become a family favorite. Here is little Italian-American fusion that works. For red wine fans, this recipe is super red wine friendly. One cautionary note--please don't stuff your turkey with "stuffing." See the explanation in the "Roasting and Brining a Turkey" post.

Ciabatta Stuffing with Chestnuts and Pancetta

6 TBL (3/4) stick Butter (halving it with olive oil is cool)

8 Oz. Pancetta, cut into 1/4 inch dice

2 Large onions, finely diced

2 Carrots, peeled and finely diced

3 Celery stalks, finely diced

2 TBL chopped fresh rosemary leaves

3 Garlic cloves chopped

2 (7.4 oz) Jars roasted peeled whole chestnuts, coarsely broken

1/4 Cups chopped Parsley

1 Lb day-old Ciabatta bread, cut into 3/4 inch cubes

2/3 Cup or more canned low-salt chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Large eggs, beaten to blend

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees

Butter a 15 by 10 by 2-inch glass baking dish. Melt 2 TBL of butter in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a large bowl. Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, carrots, celery, rosemary, and garlic.

Saute until the onions are very tender, about 12 minutes. Gently stir in the chestnuts and parsley. Transfer the onion mixture to the large bowl with the pancetta. Add the bread and parmesan and toss to coast. Add enough broth to the stuffing mixture to moisten. Season the stuffing, to taste, with salt and pepper. Mix in the eggs.

Transfer the stuffing to the prepared dish. Cover wtih buttered foil, buttered side down, and bake until the stuffing is heated through, about 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the top is crisp and golden, about 15 minutes longer.

Thanksgiving 2009: Bubbly and More!

2009-11-19T10:37:00.015-05:00

"What wine should I serve on Thanksgiving?" This is always the most frequently asked question of me leading up to turkey day. Wine selection can be challenging with the wide variety of flavors and dishes at our traditional feast. Cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, stuffing, scalloped oysters, and the star of the show, turkey, blend sweet, creamy, savory, herbaceous, earthy, and spice into a state of culinary chaotic nirvana. So what wine(s) can we serve to cut through and compliment this cornucopia of tastes? Fortunately, there are a multitude of options to pick from. Because of the host of flavors and individual preferences (and prejudices), a mix of white and red is preferred. Here are my varietal and regional thoughts concluding with my grand pick of 2009. As for specific domaines or wineries, your local wine merchant can ably assist you. My suggestions are in no way intended to be exhaustive. Please comment with your own recommendations.

Thanksgiving lends itself to a broad choice of fun and interesting white alternatives. Any of these can also play the aperitif role. I often begin dinner with a spicy (red pepper and cumin) butternut squash or pumpkin soup. Last year I served a German Spatlese Riesling with the spicy soup. Surprisingly, this was selected as the star of the evening by my dinner companions. The elegant sweetness of the Spatlese neutralizes the fire of the soup while the the spiciness lessens the sweetness. Simply lovely.

There are many other white wines that can be served throughout the entire dinner. Spicy Gewurztraminer has always been a classic Thanksgiving wine. Strong consideration goes to Riesling, particularly German Kabinett. The 2007 vintage in German was outstanding and offers fair value. Wines from Alsace, France are ideal partners including Riesling, Pinot Gris and/or Pinot Blanc (my aperitif pick). My Oregon friends can be heard screaming rightfully for Oregon Pinot Gris. Also a wonderful choice. In his fourth quarter issue of Burghound, Allen Meadows raved about 2007 and 2008 Chablis (Chardonnay). The limestone chalkiness of Chablis proves a zesty match with oysters.

Now for a wine with a different color, a top Red vin is essential for me on Thanksgiving. Light and medium body wines seem to work best. Pinot Noir is the obvious preference. The wide range of Pinot Noir styles all seem to work for different reasons. The more fruit present Pinot Noir of California and Oregon mirror the fruit flavors of our feast. Yet, Burgundy compliments the earthy and savory. In recent years Burgundy usually finds it way into my glass.

Because Thanksgiving is an exclusive American holiday, there are justified proponents of the true native varietal, Zinfandel. Who would argue? It's lush fruit can be Zinful. There is an exciting universe of options, notably among the "Rs" of Zin--Ridge, Ravenswood and Rosenbloom.

Other considerations are from France's Loire Valley (Cabernet Franc), Cotes du Rhone and Cru Beaujolais. For my after dinner beached whale imitation, a glass of Pedro Ximenez from Spain with pumpkin pie is certain to export me to a dreamy world. In the likely event an emergency digestive is required, a bottle of Armagnac will be nearby. Alternatively, a little Bourbon on the rocks can toast my Kentucky heritage.

Now, Here is my grand overall pick.

In 2009 you had to be living under a rock to not be challenged by the downturn in the global economy, whether it was for yourself, a dear friend or a beloved family member. In honor of the woes of 2009, my pick is Rose Champagne (or sparkling wine). Bubbly is a classic match for turkey and all that goes with Thanksgiving. For the value minded (all of us), the highly respected Ghislaine de Montegolfier, president of the Union des Maisons de Champagne and president of Champagne Bollinger (one of my personal faves) stated in the December issue of Decanter, "You can be sure some excellent Champagne will be available at competitive prices, thanks to a succession of stellar vintages and a fall in demand brought about by the economic crisis...Champagne houses will be doing what they can to boost sales this Christmas, so you can expect some attractive offers."

After all Napoleon is credited with saying about Champagne, "In victory we deserve it. In defeat we need it." Regardless if it is deserving or needed, we should all expect Champagne this year... or anytime.

Roasting and Brining Turkey

2009-11-17T16:24:00.002-05:00

We have all had a turkey on Thanksgiving that was more like dry, stiff cardboard than edible poultry. Here is a solution to roasting a turkey that will guarantee a flavorful, succulent bird and raving fans. The credit for the detailed preparation outlined below goes entirely to Brian Patterson, Hospitality Manager, at the American Medical Association in Washington, DC, and a long time member of the faculty at his alma mater, L'Academie de Cuisine French Culinary School. Having had the pleasure of attending classes at L'Academie for seven years, you can be assured Brian's classes (and dozens of classes by other terrific chefs) are a must for anyone desiring to improve their cooking skills. Brian's knife skills classes are outstanding and legendary. Knowledgeable and entertaining, he will improve your skills in the kitchen by quantum leaps. I recommend signing up immediately upon release of seasonal catalog, because classes fill up instantly. Register for online notices and peruse the catalog at www.lacademie.com. L'Academie conducts classes at their recreational school in Bethesda, Maryland and the professional school in Gaithersburg, Maryland.

Roasting and Brining Turkey

If possible, buy a fresh turkey, one that has not been previously frozen. If you do use a frozen turkey, thaw it out in the refrigerator, not at room temperature. If you get your turkey one day or more before you are going to cook it, it is a good idea to remove the turkey from its package, rinse it, and rewrap in new plastic and place it in the refrigerator. Remember that turkey, like chicken is a host for salmonella, and all utensils and food preparation surfaces that come in contact with raw turkey should be thoroughly washed and, ideally, sanitized with a mixture of bleach and water.

Place the wrapped turkey in the sink before removing the wrapping, to avoid making a mess of your counter top. Remove the turkey from the package, remove the neck, giblets, and other goodies from both cavities (this may mean un-hooking the legs from a plastic retainer designed to hold the legs in place at the opening of the cavity. Rinse the bird thoroughly inside and out with cold running water to remove standing blood and juices and any slimy film that may be on the skin. Pat the bird dry with paper towels inside and out.

BRINING The skin and surface of a roasted turkey can be enhanced by brining. Brining also makes the meat more moist and flavorful. A brine is a mixture of salt, sugar, water, and pickling spices. The brine cures or partially cooks the outer 1/2 inch of the roast which preserves the roast prior to cooking, and it helps seal in flavor and moisture. You will need a large enough container to allow the turkey to be completely immersed in the brine. A five gallon plastic bucket from a hardware store is perfect and costs about $2. Brine the turkey up to 24 hours prior to cooking. Remove the turkey from the brine an hour prior to placing it in the oven, to allow the skin to air dry. A turkey that has been brined does not require further seasoning. Here is the formula for a brine :

1 Gallon Water

1/2 lb Salt

1/2 Cup Sugar

2 Tbls Pickling Spice

3 Garlic Cloves, Crushed

Combine all the ingredients, bring to a boil, cool and strain. Refrigerate until needed.

I avoid cooking stuffing in the cavity of the turkey, especially a large one, for the following reason: By the time the heat from the oven has worked its way through the turkey to start cooking the stuffing, the turkey is done, and stuffing is raw. So you either over-cook the turkey to finish the stuffing, or, if you serve a perfectly cooked turkey, you run the risk of serving stuffing that is not only undercooked, but that has also been in contact with raw turkey juices (blood) and standing in the cavity about 100 degrees for several hours. It is much safer, and more efficient to cook the stuffing separately. If you do stuff a turkey, NEVER stuff a raw turkey with warm stuffing, whether it is the night before or right before you are about to cook the bird. I like to stuff thyme, strictly to flavor the turkey, not to eat as a stuffing.

IF YOU HAVE NOT USED A BRINE season the turkey with plenty of salt and pepper inside the cavity. Once you have finished seasoning the cavity of the turkey, replace the legs in the plastic retainer, or tie the legs in place in such a way as to hold the cavity closed. Rub the turkey with oil such as olive oil (to enhance the golden color of the finished bird) and season with plenty of salt and pepper (use white pepper if you do not want the "freckles" of black pepper). IF YOU HAVE USED A BRINE, skip seasoning and slathering the outside of the turkey.

If you are more concerned about flavor than appearance, roast the turkey with the breast-side down most if not all of the overall cooking time. Most of the flavor and juices of a turkey are in the bones of the back, therefore, if the bones are on top, the flavorful juices will cascade down throughout the meat, making the breasts more moist. Place the turkey on a roasting tray that permits access to the juices that collect in the tray with a baster or a spoon. To begin, place the turkey--breast-side--into an oven pre-heated to 450 degrees. Once the breast side is golden brown, about 15-20 minutes, invert the turkey so the breast-side is facing down.

About 15 minutes after inverting the turkey, turn the heat down to 325 degrees. The initial heat sears the outside of the bird, sealing in the juices and giving a roasted flavor. I recommend leaving turkey breast-side down for the duration of the cooking.

In order to schedule the timing of other dishes and time to serve, plan on cooking turkey for about 7 minutes per pound. However, the most reliable method of knowing when the turkey is done is by using a very accurate meat thermometer. Baste the turkey every 30 minutes or so, however, in order to maintain a consistent temperature, avoid opening the oven frequently. I do not cover the turkey while it is roasting. Do not pierce the meat other than to take the internal temperature, as this drains the meat of valuable juices. The internal temperature of the turkey should be 170 degrees. Using a meat thermometer, take the temperature at the last place to be cooked, right in the elbow of the thigh, on the side facing the breast. In general, the juices should run clear. If the juices are cloudy or bloody, the turkey is not yet fully cooked. Once the turkey is cooked, it is very important to ALLOW IT TO REST, COVERED, IN A WARM PLACE FOR 1/4 - 1/3 OF THE OVERALL COOKING TIME. A large cooler is perfect not only to hold the turkey while it rests, but also to transport it once it is cooked. Allowing the turkey to rest permits the juices to re-distribute throughout the meat. This makes the meat more moist, and avoids creating puddles of juice on the carving board, leaving the juices in the meat where they belong.

Bon Appetit!

Domaine Pierre and Jerome Coursodon

2009-11-17T08:22:00.007-05:00

Last night I enjoyed a 2005 Domaine Coursodon St. Joseph from the Northern Rhone of France with a beouf Dube (beef stew) at Le Lavandou, a Provencal restaurant, in my Cleveland Park neighborhood. Starting in 2006, this wine is labeled "Silice" This past January, I had the good fortune of meeting Pierre Coursodon and his son, Jerome, at the Cote Rotie Marche aux Vins in Ampuis. This annual three day gathering of the wine producers from the region affords trade professionals a convenient opportunity to taste the wines. And the locals have the opportunity to taste and purchase at favorable prices before the juice is exported to the four corners of the world.

The Coursodons are third generation vignerons (vine growers) in the village of Mauves in the southern St. Joseph appellation. Jerome's son, Antoinne, who was born in 2003 is expected to become the 4th generation. Pierre's grandfather ,Gustave, who unfortunately passed away in 2005, was the former mayor of Mauves, and a catalyst in developing St. Joseph into the prominent wine region that is today. As a historical side note, during WWII Gustave's home was occupied by the Germans and was destroyed in August 1944 as the Germans retreated. The occupation, however, never stopped him from tending to his vines.

The Coursodon wines are classic expressions of St. Joseph Northern Rhone Syrah. This bottle was medium bodied showing warm black fruits with a soft touch of chocolate. Restaurant owner, Florence Develliers, called the St. Joseph the perfect match for Daube. On another chilly autumn evening in 2006, I had the Delas St. Joseph with a wild boar and red wine stew at Le Chateau in Tournon, the largest village in St. Joseph. Winter stews and Northern Rhone Syrah warms the heart and the soul, transporting me emotionally to France every time.

The Coursodons produce two higher end reds, St. Joseph Paradis St. Pierre Rouge and La Sensonne. Their whites are highly recommended.

In the photo from left to right are Jerome Cousodon, moi (with the purple teeth), Pierre pouring and Gilles Barge, a superb vigneron in Cote Rotie. I stayed at Gilles' chambre (B&B) during my stay.

Cranberry Sauce with Roasted Shallots Port and Red Wine

2009-11-16T09:51:00.004-05:00

For years certain Thanksgiving dishes have not done it for me. Cranberry sauce was one, especially that jello, silo shaped stuff in a can...Gross!! In the last few years I began searching for and creating traditional dishes that are more red wine friendly and thus tastier. Here's a cranberry sauce recipe that I have been serving during the holidays for several years that is not only palatable, but extraordinary. It is a sure hit.

Credit must be given, however, to Andrea Immer-Robinson's Fine Living Network series, Pairings with Andrea. I friend told me recently that her professor at Wharton graduate business school advised her to "steal shamelessly." When it comes to recipes, I always have, while giving proper credit, of course.

Cranberry and Roasted Shallot Sauce with Port and Red Wine

Ingredients:

18 Medium shallots, peeled and quartered lengthwise through the root end

1 TBL Extra Virgin olive oil

5 TBL Balsamic vinegar

1/2 Cup granulated sugar

1 Cup Dry red wine (Zinfandel or Pinot Noir)

2/3 Cup Ruby port

1/3 Cup Light brown sugar, packed

12 Oz Bag fresh cranberries

TBL Fresh Thyme (or dried)

1 TBL Chopped fresh parsley

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 400F

Toss shallots with oil and minced fresh thyme on small rimmed baking sheet.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bake until golden, about 25 minutes.

Drizzle 1 TBL vinegar over shallots, toss to coat. Continue roasting until shallots caramelize, stirring occasionally about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven.

Bring red wine, port, brown sugar, remaining 4 TBL of vinegar, and granulated sugar to boil in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.

Add cranberries; cook until berries pop, stirring occasionally about 8 minutes.

Mix in parsley and shallots.

Transfer to bowl. Cover and chill overnight.

Serve cold or at room temperature.

Note: This dish can be made up to a week in advance if kept refrigerated.

Prices Soar at Hospices de Beaune

2009-11-16T05:49:00.004-05:00

British wine writer Jancis Robinson (best there is) reported on Twitter shortly ago that 2009 prices soared at the Hospices de Beaune aucton in Beaune, France this past weekend, even with "increased quantities." According to Ms. Robinson, "Reds +31pc, whites +8pc so +20pc overall." Burgundy producers have raved about the 2009 harvest describing it as good if not better than the highly acclaimed 2005 vintage. This is not good news for U.S. consumers given the value of the cellar dwelling dollar. To quote the always eloquent Ms. Robinson, "Eeek." Ditto!

Laura Reinas Brings Us Olive Oil from BRAZIL!

2009-11-14T10:21:00.007-05:00

This past week I heard author Malcolm Gladwell speak at Elliott Masie's Learning 2009 conference in Orlando. Of course, one his best sellers is Tipping Point, which "is that magic moment when an idea, trend, or social behavior crosses a threshold, tips, and spreads like wildfire." I can't help but believe this is happening with high quality Extra Virgin olive oil. Quality olive oil production is not only about the old world of Italy, Spain, France and Greece. Similar to the spread of wine, the new world has caught on. Australia, California, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Tunisia, and New Zealand are producing oils that have earned a place in our pantry.

Now, here comes Brazil. With their growing economy, Brazil might be about to enter the world stage. Thanks to the wonders of social media, I recently met an enthusiastic evangelist for Brazilian olive oil, Laura Reinas. I have included below a post from Laura about Brazilian olive oil (http://www.naosocomidinha.blogspot.com). It is good to know through Laura that we can track the progress of olive oil production in Brazil. A bottle of Brazilian olive oil might be in our pantry in the not so distant future. Perhaps, I should order the Portuguese version of Rosetta Stone.

"Yes, We Have Olive Oil!

The olive groves, very diffused throughout the Mediterranean, took place thanks to the speed of the Cretan and Phoenician ships, and the adoption of olive oil as the local currency, which made planting trees very important economically for the people of the region. These plantings are now spread around the world with their seedlings taken by settlers to countries such as America, Argentina and Chile.

And following the logic that Argentina and Chile produce quality olive oil, why not Brazil?

There is a responsibility for producing a quality olive oil that reflects Brazil’s rich cultural and economic history. Currently producing Brazilian olive oil carries a big task in cultivating a large estate of olive trees in ‘Serra da Mantiqueira,’ bordering the states of Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais. The seedlings adapted to the climatic conditions, which are not very favorable conditions of the Mediterranean region, because in Brazil, we have a lack of sandy areas and harsh winter.

There are 37 varieties planted, especially the Grapollo for oil, and Ascolana for table olives.

While the first harvest has been frustrated because of hailstorms that occurred in the region, the expectation remains that Brazil will produce quality olive oil on a large-scale basis as in European countries, such as Portugal and Spain, old world examples of success and tradition in the production of large quantities of fruit.

This step in the production of domestic olive oil can also help the Brazilian economy, reducing dependence on imports and helping in agriculture.

In the future you can look forward to your table and pantry including a bottle of high quality Extra Virgin olive oil from, yes, BRAZIL!"

Laura Reinas

French Wine Society Master Level Exams

2009-11-03T18:07:00.003-05:00

I just now received the exciting news that I passed both the Rhone and Provence Master-Level exams sponsored by the French Wine Society and endorsed by the French based organizations Inter Rhone and Vins de Provence. I believe I will pull the cork on a fabulous Rhone or Provence wine tonight. This is nice gratification after much travel and tasting. It's tough work but somebody has to do it.