Stéphane Derenoncourt Update on the 2009 Vintage in Bordeaux

Here's an interview with super wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt about the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux.

http://premierepresse.com/newsletters/images/spe/ca1a78ecebfbe2ef4f49d76d7ad53f57_pdf_614850227.pdf

A Comment on Olive Oil Longevity

This comes from leading international food entrepreneur, Liz Tagami.

http://www.linkedin.com/newsArticle?viewDiscussion=&articleID=93036225&gid=1706607&split_page=1#comment_1

I agree that 12-18 months is preferred when considering the age of an olive oil. The challenge is that retailers will not unload old oil. For most major retailers, the 2009 harvest will not appear on their shelves until late summer or fall. This is a bad strategy on the part of retailers, which does not serve the best interest of the consumer.

This discussion is about an unopened bottle. Once the bottle is opened, it should be consumed within 30-60 days.

Buying Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Fresh is Best!

Because there are no Federal Standards for Extra Virgin olive oil in the United States, our country has become the dumping ground of inferior, adulterated olive oils from Europe. The words “Extra Virgin” offer no quality guarantee. A label containing this renowned phrase can be slapped on a bottle of spring water or soda pop and sold as Extra Virgin olive oil. Is this an illegal activity? No, except, perhaps, in California. Most American consumers of olive oil are consuming a product that is flavorless, flawed and lacking in the health benefits they are desperately seeking. The Western Farm Press reported on November 30, 2009 that California Olive Council Executive Director Patricia Darragh has been sharply critical of a lack of federal standards for olive oil. “We have become a market for oil that is potentially adulterated or mislabeled,” Darragh said.

This is unfortunate given the health benefits of olive oil are extolled in the press every day. The benefits are an established, scientific fact. Most consumers get that. What they don’t understand is all olive oils are not the same. They are unaware and confused about buying and using this natural nectar to maximum its flavor and health benefits.

How can you be assured of buying quality Extra Virgin olive oil? To begin, the source of the oil is crucial. The mislabeled, adulterated oils from Europe referred to earlier are usually "bulk" olive oils. These are found commonly on the shelves of mega supermarkets. They are cheap. When you see the words “Imported" or "Packed from Italy,” run. The source of fruit for these oils can be from most anywhere in the Mediterranean, and perhaps, cut with other seed oils. Some bulk producers are now listing on the label the countries supplying the fruit. Moreover, the age of the oil is usually a mystery and the shipping and storage conditions are often suspect. Consequently, flavor, freshness and health benefits are lacking.

Now here's what you want. Quality can be found with estate Extra Virgin olive oils. With these olive oils the when and the where are known. The individual grower has sole control over the process from tree to bottle. The fruit is usually handpicked (some excellent oils are mechanically harvested). With these dedicated, hardworking folks there's no sourcing fruit from another country. Their trees are family. The tender loving care is evident by their flavor and freshness.

Now, how do you know if it's an estate olive oil? The answer often lies in the fine print... the harvest date. The front or back label should state the date or year of harvest. The label will read, "November 2008" or simply the year. Some oils from the recent 2009 harvest are available now. These are referred to as new, nuovo or nouveau Extra Virgin olive oils. Intense pungency and pepperiness are their trademark, and super healthy. Most of the oil from the 2009 harvest will become available by early spring.

Why is the harvest date important? Olive oil is not like wine. It does not get better with age. The fresher the oil, the more flavorful and healthful it is. Oxidation and deterioration begins immediately after the fruit is picked from the tree, if not before. Olive oil should be consumed within 18-24 months from the harvest (18 months is better). In the northern hemisphere olives are harvested in the autumn, usually October, November and December. The southern hemisphere harvest occurs during our spring. Presently, the freshest available oils are from the southern hemisphere, except for the recently harvested new oils.

Alternative to the harvest date, a Best Used By (expiration) date is commonly listed on the bottle or label. Generally, this date is two years (or 18 months) subsequent to the harvest. For example, if the bottle indicates it’s Best to use by 12/10,” then you know the olives were harvested in the autumn of 2008. Buyer beware, many gourmet retailers will gladly sell you a three or four year-old olive oil for $35-40.

To what regions of the globe should be you looking for these estate growers? Your options are vast and fun. Here's a sampling of treasurers. First the earlier negative reference to "Imported from Italy," should no way reflect poorly on the Italian estate growers. These passionate folks produce outstanding olive oil. For your holiday gift giving consider the 2008 harvest in Tuscany was the best in a decade. Other regions in Italy produce fabulous olive oils. For ten years, my desert island oil (should I ever be stranded on one) is Ravidá from Sicily. Spain is now pouring out a flood of extraordinary oils. My good friend Rosa Vañó produces a steller portfolio at Castillo de Canena. Italy's historic bulk supplier, Tunisia, now has an expanding group of estate growers producing and bottling quality olive oil. France has Jean-Benôit Hugues' Castelas in Le Baux,Provence.

California has entered a oil boom and not with rigs. Chris Banthien's Le Colline in Santa Cruz and Apollo's Mistral have been my favorites for years. Australia (Rylstone), New Zealand, South Africa, and Chile (Olavé) are storming on to the scene with quality product that is worthy of a place in your pantry. So explore and have fun. Yet, always remember that Fresh is Best.

Discovering Bordeaux: Marvelous Margaux

Bordeaux is considered by wine experts to be the greatest wine region in the world (Burgundy and the Rhone Valley are my personal preferences). It is difficult, however, to argue with that lofty praise after tasting 50+ quality Bordeaux wines at yesterday's "Discovering Bordeaux," a trade tasting and seminar event sponsored by Robert Cavanaugh's Wine Adventure. When writing about wine, we should not assume the basics, as Robert Cavanaugh aptly stated. First, Bordeaux is a wine region, not a grape. The region is located in southwest France, near the Atlantic Ocean and spread along the Gironde River.

Jay Youmans, the only Master of Wine in the Washington, DC area (24 in the U.S) and owner of the Capital Wine School (www.capitalwineschool.com) stated three primary reasons for Bordeaux's greatness. The first two are low alcohol (but rising) and high acidity which makes the wines wonderful partners with food. The third is their extraordinary ability to improve with age. No wine region in the world, particularly new world, can compare to Bordeaux's age worthiness. Grand Cru Burgundy and the Northern Rhone's Hermitage and Cote Rotie regions have rightful claims to excellent aging.

Now, here my thoughts and reflections from an afternoon of listening to Bordeaux experts and tasting the fine wines of the region.

To aid your understanding of Bordeaux, Youmans also offered a useful primer. To summarize briefly, Bordeaux is split by the Gironde River into the Right and Left Bank. The famous communes of Margaux, St. Julien, Paulliac and St. Estephe reside on the Left Bank (west of the river). Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominate grape variety because of the gravel composition of the landscape. The better drainage of the gravel allows the Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen earlier. Here the wines are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Right Bank (east) includes the renowned Pomerol and St Emilon and other lesser known appellations. The Right Bank is primarily Merlot, which now accounts for more than 60% of all wine produced in Bordeaux. The high composition of clay in the soil which is cooler and retains water easily is more suitable to Merlot. Because of the lack of drainage, Cabernet Sauvignon has difficulty ripening in clay.

Now, there's much more to understanding Bordeaux such as the classification systems. Those discussions will be parked for future postings. For an in depth study, read The Complete Bordeaux, by Stephen Brook.

We need some wine ideas for the holidays.

From yesterday's tasting, the wines from Margaux were my personal favorites. Elyse Kudo, General Manger, Monument Fines Wines, offered a fantasy line-up. The 2006 Palmer Alter Ego, second wine of Chateau Palmer, typified the elegance and femininity of Margaux. The 2006 Chateau Malescot's silkiness and brightness could get my nod for best of the day (picking bests is a senseless exercise). My old friend Chateau D'Angulet illustrated the promise of the renowned 2005 vintage. The soft and integrated tannins framed the gorgeous fruit aromas. There was none of the drying coffee sensation on the palate that often comes from top youthful Bordeaux. Remember, this wine was from 2005, which is not known for its youthful drinkability. The 2006 Chateau Prieure-Lichine showed more richness, while retaining that Margaux elegance. Chateaux La Gurgue and Monbrison are worth a look. Simply, Margaux wines are made with food in mind.

The 2005 Phelan Segur showed surprising approachability for a St. Estephe, often burly when young. This a consistent chateau worth looking at every year. Youmans remarked that wines from St. Estephe are good value compared to the complete lack of value in Paulliac, St. Julien and Margaux. More Merlot is being added to the blends to improve approachability in their youth. St. Estephe is worth exploring.

Maisons Marques & Domaines presented a steller group led by the wines of former Decanter "Person of the Year and owner of Chateau Petrus, Christian Mouiex. From 2006, his Chateau Magdelaine, St. Emillion, (Premier Grand Cru Classe) and Pomerol properties Chateau Certan-Marzelle (Pomerol) and Lafleur-Gazin showcase Mouiex's distinct style which is the antithesis of the modern, international style of big, blockbuster fruit. These highly structured wines require patience, but worth the wait. Another St. Estephe, Chateau de Pez, is recommended.

Here are some other noteworthy wines that merit your consideration: Chateau Loudene (Medoc); Chateau Fleur de Rigaud (Bordeaux Superieur); Chateau Rilet Rouge (Fronsac), Chateau St. Andre Corbin, St. Andre Corbin, St. Georges St. Emilion; Chateau Larose de Gruard, St. Julien (formerly Sarget de Gruard-Larose and second wine of Chateau Guard-Larose); Chateau d'Aggassac (Haut Medoc); and Chateau Pibran (Paulliac).

Here are some other regions worth exploring. Pessac-Leognan in the Graves has to be at the top of the list. Also, venture into some smaller or lesser known appellations such as Haut Medoc, Listrac, Moulis, and Fronsac where good value can be found.

For most of us, it is impractical to attempt mastering a large region such as Bordeaux. The good news is that we do not have to. The fun is always in the adventure.

Olive Oil Line-up: Gregory Peck, Halle Berry, Audrey Hepburn.....

Along with Florence Devilliers, Le Lavandou Restaurant, Tony Quinn, Cleveland Park Wines, and Antoine Songy, Robert Kacher Selections, I cordially invite you to taste, learn and shop the wines from the South of France, olive oils from around the world and food of the Mediterranean. Chef Edith Reyes is preparing a fabulous menu of tasty treats to showcase the olive oils and wines. Wine and olive oils will also be available to purchase for your holiday gift giving.

Costs: $45 (tax and gratuity included). RSVP at (202) 966-3002, (202) 966-8530 or by email: contact@lavandoudc.com or bill@crushandpress.com

Location: Le Lavandou Restaurant, 3321 Connecticut Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (Cleveland Park-across from the Uptown Theatre)

Here's the line-up of magnificent Extra Virgin olive oils that we will be tasting. To help describe the flavor and style profile metaphorically, each olive oil is compared with a famous celebrity.

• Olave Organic (Chile) This olive oil producer is blending Italian and Spanish cultivars (varietals) and challenging the old world with price and quality much like the wines of South America. This might well be described as the Halle Berry, lovely texture and gorgeous with a little spice.

• Colonna (Italy) Produced by the Countess Marina Colonna near Rome is the Audrey Hepburn with its undeniable grace, elegance and class. Say no more!

• L'Estornell Organic (Spain) The Vea family standard bearer from Northwest Spain in Catalonia is produced 100% from the Arbequina cultivar. I refer to this olive oil as the Jennifer Aniston and Adam Sadler, charming, popular with hints of nuttiness.

• Castelas Organic (France) Jean-Benoit Hugues produces a robust, high phenolic (the super healthy stuff) oil from traditional French varieties in the foothills below the beautiful village of Les Baux in Provence. This is genuine Clint Eastwood, explosive and in your face, but polished.

• Ravida Organic (Sicily) The Ravida family traditionally produces one of the finest olive oils in Italy. This has been my desert island oil for over ten years and can best be described by no other than Gregory Peck, manly, suave, debonair, and always gives a stellar performance.

Please join us Sunday for a fun afternoon of olive oil, wine and food. Happy Holidays!

Stuffing Recipe that Rocks

Stuffing has never been one of my favorite Thanksgiving dishes, until there was stuffing with pancetta and chestnuts. This recipe is courtesy of celebrity chef, Giada de Laurentis and it has become a family favorite. Here is little Italian-American fusion that works. For red wine fans, this recipe is super red wine friendly. One cautionary note--please don't stuff your turkey with "stuffing." See the explanation in the "Roasting and Brining a Turkey" post.

Ciabatta Stuffing with Chestnuts and Pancetta

6 TBL (3/4) stick Butter (halving it with olive oil is cool)

8 Oz. Pancetta, cut into 1/4 inch dice

2 Large onions, finely diced

2 Carrots, peeled and finely diced

3 Celery stalks, finely diced

2 TBL chopped fresh rosemary leaves

3 Garlic cloves chopped

2 (7.4 oz) Jars roasted peeled whole chestnuts, coarsely broken

1/4 Cups chopped Parsley

1 Lb day-old Ciabatta bread, cut into 3/4 inch cubes

2/3 Cup or more canned low-salt chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Large eggs, beaten to blend

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees

Butter a 15 by 10 by 2-inch glass baking dish. Melt 2 TBL of butter in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a large bowl. Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, carrots, celery, rosemary, and garlic.

Saute until the onions are very tender, about 12 minutes. Gently stir in the chestnuts and parsley. Transfer the onion mixture to the large bowl with the pancetta. Add the bread and parmesan and toss to coast. Add enough broth to the stuffing mixture to moisten. Season the stuffing, to taste, with salt and pepper. Mix in the eggs.

Transfer the stuffing to the prepared dish. Cover wtih buttered foil, buttered side down, and bake until the stuffing is heated through, about 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the top is crisp and golden, about 15 minutes longer.

Thanksgiving 2009: Bubbly and More!

"What wine should I serve on Thanksgiving?" This is always the most frequently asked question of me leading up to turkey day. Wine selection can be challenging with the wide variety of flavors and dishes at our traditional feast. Cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, stuffing, scalloped oysters, and the star of the show, turkey, blend sweet, creamy, savory, herbaceous, earthy, and spice into a state of culinary chaotic nirvana. So what wine(s) can we serve to cut through and compliment this cornucopia of tastes? Fortunately, there are a multitude of options to pick from. Because of the host of flavors and individual preferences (and prejudices), a mix of white and red is preferred. Here are my varietal and regional thoughts concluding with my grand pick of 2009. As for specific domaines or wineries, your local wine merchant can ably assist you. My suggestions are in no way intended to be exhaustive. Please comment with your own recommendations.

Thanksgiving lends itself to a broad choice of fun and interesting white alternatives. Any of these can also play the aperitif role. I often begin dinner with a spicy (red pepper and cumin) butternut squash or pumpkin soup. Last year I served a German Spatlese Riesling with the spicy soup. Surprisingly, this was selected as the star of the evening by my dinner companions. The elegant sweetness of the Spatlese neutralizes the fire of the soup while the the spiciness lessens the sweetness. Simply lovely.

There are many other white wines that can be served throughout the entire dinner. Spicy Gewurztraminer has always been a classic Thanksgiving wine. Strong consideration goes to Riesling, particularly German Kabinett. The 2007 vintage in German was outstanding and offers fair value. Wines from Alsace, France are ideal partners including Riesling, Pinot Gris and/or Pinot Blanc (my aperitif pick). My Oregon friends can be heard screaming rightfully for Oregon Pinot Gris. Also a wonderful choice. In his fourth quarter issue of Burghound, Allen Meadows raved about 2007 and 2008 Chablis (Chardonnay). The limestone chalkiness of Chablis proves a zesty match with oysters.

Now for a wine with a different color, a top Red vin is essential for me on Thanksgiving. Light and medium body wines seem to work best. Pinot Noir is the obvious preference. The wide range of Pinot Noir styles all seem to work for different reasons. The more fruit present Pinot Noir of California and Oregon mirror the fruit flavors of our feast. Yet, Burgundy compliments the earthy and savory. In recent years Burgundy usually finds it way into my glass.

Because Thanksgiving is an exclusive American holiday, there are justified proponents of the true native varietal, Zinfandel. Who would argue? It's lush fruit can be Zinful. There is an exciting universe of options, notably among the "Rs" of Zin--Ridge, Ravenswood and Rosenbloom.

Other considerations are from France's Loire Valley (Cabernet Franc), Cotes du Rhone and Cru Beaujolais. For my after dinner beached whale imitation, a glass of Pedro Ximenez from Spain with pumpkin pie is certain to export me to a dreamy world. In the likely event an emergency digestive is required, a bottle of Armagnac will be nearby. Alternatively, a little Bourbon on the rocks can toast my Kentucky heritage.

Now, Here is my grand overall pick.

In 2009 you had to be living under a rock to not be challenged by the downturn in the global economy, whether it was for yourself, a dear friend or a beloved family member. In honor of the woes of 2009, my pick is Rose Champagne (or sparkling wine). Bubbly is a classic match for turkey and all that goes with Thanksgiving. For the value minded (all of us), the highly respected Ghislaine de Montegolfier, president of the Union des Maisons de Champagne and president of Champagne Bollinger (one of my personal faves) stated in the December issue of Decanter, "You can be sure some excellent Champagne will be available at competitive prices, thanks to a succession of stellar vintages and a fall in demand brought about by the economic crisis...Champagne houses will be doing what they can to boost sales this Christmas, so you can expect some attractive offers."

After all Napoleon is credited with saying about Champagne, "In victory we deserve it. In defeat we need it." Regardless if it is deserving or needed, we should all expect Champagne this year... or anytime.