A Rainy Saturday in Burgundy

Saturday, April 3, 2010

It’s Easter weekend and pouring rain in Burgundy. What is one to do? Spending the day in Beaune, the commercial heart of Burgundy, seemed to be the most viable option. Programmed the GPS and off… Arriving in Beaune, I strolled through the renowned Saturday farmers’ market. Everything is available, including flowers, sausage, fish, vegetables, and clothing. Oh, how I want a kitchen here.

Being a holiday weekend, requesting appointments with local vignerons for wine tasting is inappropriate and fruitless. Alternatively, my favorite wine shop, La Boutique des Domaines, was a logical next stop. As always, the proprietor, Fréderic Henry, recognized me from past adventures and handed me his weekly printout of available inventory and… a glass of wine. This is the civilized way to shop.

This is my third trip to Burgundy in the past three years. Thanks to the advice of Oregon Pinot Noir producer and Burgundy importer, Scott Wright, I have found La Boutique des Domaines to be the best of the countless wine shops in Beaune. Finding a couple of hard to find gems at a good value (relatively speaking) is always doable at this address. This year was no exception. As in the past, a Domaine Armand Rousseau grand cru was among my discoveries. The Ruchottes-Chambertin is a tiny grand cru located above the Mazis-Chambertin and Close de Bèze Grand Crus and next to Bel Air, one of my favorite premier crus.

From Burghound fame, here are Allen Meadow’s comments on the 2007 Ruchottes-Chambertin - Clos des Ruchottes: “Rousseau noted that in 2007, the Ruchottes received 25% new wood whereas in the past, the percentage was zero. An elegant, cool, restrained and lilting nose of rose petal, cranberry and raspberry aromas merges into medium weight flavors brimming with minerality and culminating in a relatively powerful finish underpinned by ripe tannins and excellent length. This really stains the palate and I very much like the underlying sense of tension.” 92/2015+

2015! Since when have I had patience?

There’s more—a bottle of Humbert Freres’ (a personal fave) 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Estournelles St. Jacques Premier Cru, is also coming home with me.

Now, after all that shopping, Je suis faim—starving A few doors from the wine shop is one of my favorite Beaune culinary havens, Caves Madeleine. A renowned food writer, whose name escapes me, was once asked to share the name of his favorite restaurant. He answered, “The one that knows my name.” Although, the owner, Lolo (phot0-showing the bottle), didn’t know my name, today, he recognized me clearly from many past visits (the last was over two years ago) and offered a hearty and warm greeting. At Caves Madeleine, you feel more like a guest in a home, than a restaurant. There are fancier restaurants in Beaune and Burgundy with higher culinary reputations, but none are more fun. Lolo always seats you next to the most interesting people at the long community table. And to choose a wine, simply scan the bins along the wall. Take your choice from the bin and set it on the table. Lolo will pop the cork for you. The price of a bottle of wine is retail, not restaurant mark-ups. Where else can you find a reasonably priced Meursault and a 2000 premier cru by the glass? If desired, a hefty wine list is available for those older gems in the cellar.

Following lunch, a tour of the Hospices de Beaune, Hôtel-Dieu (Phot0-R), Beaune’s most famous landmark, proved to be the perfect activity for a rainy afternoon. Built by the Duke of Burgundy in 1443, this hospital has been preserved completely. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century, this charitable hospital served the poor, middle class and nobles. The artwork includes Isaac Moillon’s illustration of the miracles of Christ and Flemish artist Roger Van der Weyden’s Last Judgment. The kitchen is any foodie’s fantasy.

For more photos go to www.facebook.com/crushandpress

Despite the weather, this was a full and fun day in Burgundy—and still raining. Tomorrow, Easter in Paris!

Allen "Burghound" Meadows

For the second time in the past year, I have encountered and experienced the ebullient and passionate Allen Meadows of Burghound fame. For any wine lover, particularly Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) fans, the Burghound tsunami will have you craving and appreciating the magic and spirit of Burgundy. This past Friday night, the folks at C'est Vin hosted about 90 Burgundy zealots to two hours of Allen Meadows as he shared (seldom taking a breath) his passion and knowledge as illustrated by one white and eight red Burgundies.

You know it's going to be an outstanding evening when you are greeted at the door with a glass of a Dominque Lafon wine, the Macon-Milly-Lamartine, 2005. This is Dominque Lafon's personal estate, not Comtes Lafon, the finest white wine estate in Burgundy. Lafon has only a 10% stake in Comte Lafon, so to expand personally, he ventured south to Maconnaise in search of more affordable land. Upon arrival, he began cutting yields to the laughter of the local growers. As the quality of his wines soared and...sold, Maconnaise had a new found respect. No one is laughing, now.

With Burgundy, there always has to be a discussion of terroir, which is the French concept that embodies the totality of everything that impacts the grape and its final flavors...such as elevation, climate, soil, grape growing practices, and topographical features. Now, there are those who contend that terroir is fantasy. Allen counters with just two powerful words, "La Tache," the greatest vineyard in all of Burgundy and the globe. No amount money can every duplicate La Tache. I would add that without a focus on terroir, we are drinking wine more and more that taste the same.

Here are the wines and a few pertinent comments:

Domaine Comte Armand/1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux, 2004--This is monopole of 5.24h within the larger Les Epenots and is produced by the accomplished Benjamin Laroux. Allen noted a little known fact about the 2004 vintage. It is common knowledge that Pommard and Volnay were hit hard by hail in 2004. The damage was restricted to south of Pommard. Clos des Epeneaux is on the northside of Pommard and was left unscathed. As for the wine, it is still young showing black fruit, solid tannins, hardness, but good balance. Top Pommard. Patience required.

Simon Bize, Savigny-les-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Fornaux, 2005--Usually Savigny-les Beaune wines are for earlier drinking. Not here with the use of ripe stems adding tannin and serious longevity. Allen thought Simon Bize and Jean Marc Pavelot were the two most noteworthy growers in Savigny-les-Beaune. Allen added that the highly acclaimed 2005 vintage will need 12-14 years from harvest and 20 years for the top Grand Crus. It might prove to be a 50 year vintage. And I have five cases of the stuff...smuggle it in the side door of the nursing home.

Jacques Frederic Mugnier, Nuits St. Georges, Clos de la Marechale, 2004--In 2004 Freddy Mugnier took back the Clos de La Marechale monopole (single owner) from Maison Flaively which had leased it for 50 years. This showed typical density and rustic characteristics of NSG, but having balance and finesse (not often associated with NSG).

Rene Engel, Vosne Romanee, 2004--Rene Engel passed away of heart attack at age 49. The estate is now owned by Francois Pinault, owner of Chateau Latour. Vosne always notes spicy and this has it...very pleasant. Concentration and extraction are not the same, according to Allen. Concentration comes only from the vineyard and is the coating on the palate. Extraction, on the other hand, emanates from the wine making process or vinification.

Sylvain Cathiard, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru Clos de l'Orme, 2004--Here's a rock star, Sylvain Cathiard. Chambolle translates into finesse and elegance. Cathiard takes it a step further to seductive. There's judicious use of new oak. As Allen clearly pointed out, "it's not the amount of new oak, but how much of it shows up." The oak transforms this village wine to pure elegance. This is a wonderful example how talented hands can achieve a lovely result from a troublesome vintage.

Lignier-Michelot, Morey St. Denis, 1er Cru Faconniers, 2006--Despite having four Grand Crus and a piece of a fifth (Bonnes Mares), Morey St. Denis doesn't have the lofty reputation of either Chambolle-Musigny or Gevrey-Chambertin. Value can be found here. Virgile Lignier's Faconniers lies in the middle of the commune and shows attractive minerality and finesse. This was one of my favorites for the evening. The wines from the 2006 vintage will be enjoyed long before popping the cork on the 2005s.

Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites, 2004--Produced from old vines, Mes Favorites is robust, tannic, distinct, and authentic much like Burguet himself. Mes Favorites, though a village level, is equal to many premier crus.

Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2004--The silky, subtle grace from the use of new oak offers a sharp contrast to Burguet' robust, masculine style. These are well made wines. At the moment, Gevrey-Chambertin is the best at the village level, according to Allen.

Allen lauded the 2008 vintage in Chablis, perhaps, better than 2007. Chablis is also his value tip for solid white Burgundy. To learn more about Chablis, you would be advised to subscribe at www.burghound.com The next quarterly report for subscribers will be coving 2008 Chablis. You can be assured it will be a comprehensive and frank analysis...framed with passion!

Fabulous Burgundy Line-Up

C'est Vin and Calvert Woodley are hosting a fabulous Burgundy tasting at the Park Hyatt here in DC. I'm thrilled that Eric and Allen Meadows of www.burghound.com will be special guests tonight. Allen is the foremost authority on Burgundy in the U.S. His quarterly tasting reports published through his subscriber-based service are comprehensive and an indispensable resource for collectors and Burgundy lovers. I had the good fortunate of meeting Allen and Erica at the International Pinot Noir Celebration this past summer and and was captivated in his session at the French Wine Academy last year. I have only three words to describe Allen. Passionate! Passionate! Passionate! Yet, this passion merely provides a platform for his knowledge gained through his 30 year intense study of Burgundy wines. Besides, Erica and Allen are simply good folks.

Below is a list of the wines likely to be available for tasting tonight. This is nearly akin to playing a round of golf with Tiger Woods, Phil Michelson, Jack Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer, Ben Hogan, and Kenny Perry (being a Kentuckian, I had to toss his name in). This is an exciting line-up. I've never had a Sylvan Cathiard wine, but hopefully that will change tonight. I will do my best to take copious notes and share with everyone.

2005 Michel Lafarge Volnay

2005 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Fournaux

2004 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale

2004 René Engel Vosne-Romanée

2000 Denis Mugneret Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot

2004 Sylvan Cathiard Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Clos de l'Orme

2006 Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Faconnières

2004 Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin

Early Harvest Report from Burgundy

I spoke with my friend and fabulous wine grower, Romain Taupenot, of Morey St. Denis in Burgundy this week who offered an early report for the upcoming harvest.  According to Romain, "09 should be great so far in every aspect.  We will cross our fingers, till a month before the harvest."  It would be nice to have a top Burgundy harvest to follow the extraordinary 2005 vintage.   After all, I have the pending arrival of a grandson in October.  I must begin stocking his wine cellar with some age worthy wines from his birth year.  I have already pre-ordered a magnum of the Ridge Monte Bello for him. The kid isn't born and he has a wine cellar.   His 21st. birthday should be a lot of fun. 

As for Taupenot-Merme wines,  I plan to take his 2000 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru to a salmon bake at the International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon next week.